Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

• Komarov N.P. (team leader)
• Denisenko P.N.
• Ladnushkin V.M.
• Starodub O.V.
• Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]

Ascent Passport

I ascent class — first ascent. 2 Ascent area — Bivachny glacier. 3 Peak — p. Tel'mana (40 let Oktyabrya). Height — 5970 m. Ascent route — southwest ridge with a saddle between p. 5970 and 5700 m. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 3B. 5 Route description:

• Elevation gain — 800 m
• Average slope — 40–50°. Driven pitons: rock protection — 10 pcs. Duration: 7 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight under the route on the glacier moraine. Surname and initials of the leader, participants and their qualification:

The climbing object announced by the group of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" is well-known among Soviet mountaineers. It is the highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with an ascent to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau via Borodkin's route. For this reason, this report omits a geographical overview of the area, the history of its development, and a description of the approaches to the route. A few words should be said about the meteorological conditions in the area in July-August 1976.

• From July 5 to 20, the weather was stable: clear, with little wind even at heights up to 7000 m.
• After July 20, the weather became unstable. For example, on July 21, during the descent from Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, the group had to walk for a whole day with visibility not exceeding 500 m.
• From July 23 to 27, low cloud cover and continuous light rain were observed in the area. At an altitude of 7000 m, there was a very strong wind, and snow caught the group of the Tajik Medical-Biological Expedition, which, after waiting out the bad weather in a storm camp, was forced to abandon the ascent.
• However, during the ascent on August 7-9, the weather was good, but it was very cold: on the night of August 6-7, the minimum temperature at an altitude of 6000 m was –28 °C.

Acclimatization and training ascent

The group of climbers arrived at the Buluiev clearing as part of the collective of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" on August 8, having previously made an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4500 m in the Achik-Tash clearing area. On July 1, all group members left the base camp for an acclimatization hike. The main objectives of the exit were:

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

Team Composition

1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 6231 m via the south-west edge from the Ayudzhilga valley on the Central Pamir, made by alpinists from Leningrad's “SPARTAK” on July 27–30, 1966. The summit was named: “Peak YAKIR”

Geography of the area and characteristics of the peaks

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical ascents.
2. Ascent area: 4.2.
3. Ascent object and route: p. 5000 m via the southwest buttress from Medvezhiy Glacier.
4. Estimated complexity category: 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m; average slope — 60°; length of sections by category: 1 — 0 m, 2 — 560 m, 3 — 440 m, 4 — 540 m, 5 — 330 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for anchors, etc. rock pitons 53, ice screws 9
7. Total climbing hours: 15 hours.

2. ASCENT REPORT CENTRAL PARIS
3. Summit, its height and route (98) peak 5429 m via the eastern ridge, combined route
4. Presumed difficulty category 4A Route characteristics

• height difference: 329 m Route characteristics
• steepness: 49.5
• length: 750 m Route characteristics
• length of sections: 5–6 km/h

Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. Region — Central Pamir, north-eastern spur of the Langarsky ridge
3. Peak — peak 5800 m, first ascent via the north-western counterfort
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1900 m, total length — approximately 2500 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty — 850 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 77, ice — 11
7. Number of climbing hours — 30

PASSPORT

1. Class — technical;
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
3. Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
4. Cat. diff. — 5B;
5. Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
6. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |