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Description of the passage of a category 6B route to the summit I-st Western Zamin-Karora via the North-West wall.

Ascent passport.

  1. Ascent category - technical.
  2. Ascent area - Yaghnob wall.
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route: 1st Western Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the Northwest wall.
  4. Second passage of 6B route.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1353 m, route length 1567 m, average steepness - 85°, section lengths: III cat. diff. - 200 m, II cat. diff. - 10 m, IV cat. diff. - 250 m, V cat. diff. - 620 m, VI cat. diff. - 487 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying:
    • rock - 231 pcs.
    • chocks - 74 pcs.
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Ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via the North-West wall, 6B complexity category, made by a team of climbers in 1982.

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge. 3. V. Zamin-Karor (1st category 3) 4303 m, via NW wall (S. Samoded route) 4. 6B — difficulty category. 5. Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1290 m. Length of sections 5B–6B — 815 m. Average steepness of the rock part of the route — 70°. Average steepness of the wall part (excluding the dome) — 76°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 128 ice — 1 chocks — 155

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Zamin-Karor via the West wall through the western shoulder, complexity category 5B, elevation gain 900 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar ridge, Zamin-Karor massif
  3. Zamin-Karor peak (I-st Western) via Western wall through western shoulder
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Height difference 900 m, length 1300 m, sections of 5B category of difficulty 250 m, average steepness of the route 75°
  6. Driven pitons: rock 8 + 4* закладок 42 bolt pitons –
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Report on the first ascent of the left part of the West face of Zamin-Karor peak in Pamir-Alai, made by the team of the Irkutsk Regional Council "Burevestnik" in 1978.

  1. Climbing category - rock climbing
  2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range
  3. Climbing route - first ascent via the left part of the western wall's couloir, SW peak of Zamin-Karor
  4. Climbing characteristics elevation gain - 1200 m average steepness - 86° length of challenging sections - 1001 m
  5. Pitons used: rock pitons - 153 chocks - 79
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Ascent to the top of Plem Peak (4A cat. dif.) from the base camp in the upper reaches of the Siam River with route description and recommendations.

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Ascent to Shlem Peak (from the west), 4A cat. diff.

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River. From the camp, you should follow the left bank of Siamy, initially along the moraines with a sharp gain in height, and then, turning to the right, enter the circus of the B. Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Shlem and Medvezhiy Zamok. The ascent to the saddle (the lowest point of the ridge) is carried out along the talus and snow. There is a control cairn on the saddle. From the saddle, go along the talus on the right to a poorly defined ridge and along the slabs to a wall 4 m high and 10–12 m wide. The wall is overcome in its right part. The belay is hooked, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which you can move to its end to the left under the next wall 2 m high. After overcoming the last one, cross the couloir along the ledge and reach the inclined slabs of the ridge. Move along the ridge with alternate belay for about 100 m to the lowering in the ridge. Descend into the failure on a rope. Further movement along the left side of the ridge along the slabs. The belay is hooked. After 100–120 m, reach the saddle under the wall of the summit. The height of the wall is about 100 m. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are passed vertically upwards. The rocks are difficult. It is recommended to move in rubber shoes. Then, along the ledges, go up to the left to the base of the cleft, along which the rest of the wall is overcome. At the top, the cleft ends with a wide (10–15 m) ledge with talus, where water flows on the left. On the entire wall, the belay is hooked. From the ledge, go up to the right along a wide cleft (in the lower part of the chimney). The belay is hooked. The cleft leads to inclined slabs with talus of the summit dome. Along the slabs to the summit — 150 m.

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First ascent of the southeast wall of Peak 4200 in the Hissar Range, Pamir-Alay; category 6B difficulty, with a detailed route description and photographs.

Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Tagrich gorge.
  3. Peak 4200 — southeast wall.
  4. Proposed 6 cat. sl., first ascent.
  5. Route height difference 650 m, wall part — 620 m. Route length — 776 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 664 m. Avg. steepness of main sections — 85°. Length of sections with 6 category complexity — 317 m.
  6. Driven hooks: | rock | stopper | bolt | ice |
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Ascent to Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the west wall, category 4B difficulty, route description and key sections.

Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona via the right part of the western wall, rated as 6th category of difficulty.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

PASSPORT

  1. Class of technical ascents
  2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge (northern part)
  3. Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the right part of the western wall (N. Vlodarchik route)
  4. 6B category of difficulty
  5. Height difference from the base of the wall to the summit - 1088 m, length - 1810 m. Height difference from the base of the wall to the ridge - 935 m, length - 1210 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 945 m. Average steepness of main sections - 71° (4150-4985), including 6th category: 87° (4200-4270), 85° (4330-4380), 85° (4395-4410), 87° (4475-4495), 62° (4505-4520), 92° (4660-4685), 87° (4785-4885).
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
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Description of a challenging mountaineering route, category 6 difficulty, to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a group of athletes in 1979.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class —
  2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
  3. Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, western wall.
  4. Difficulty category — 6B.
  5. Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m (wall section). Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. Length of sections:
  • III difficulty category — 130 m
  • IV difficulty category — 125 m
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First ascent of the north wall of Zindon peak (4800 m, Pamir-Alay) via the center of the wall, a route of category 6 complexity.

  1. The ascent category — technical
  2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: via the center of the north wall of ZINDON 4800 m, first ascent.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1089 m, average steepness — 84°
  6. Number of pitons and chocks used for protection and artificial aids: rock — 334 (140), ice — 42 (2), bolt — 17 (16), chocks — 49 (37)
  7. Number of climbing hours — 118
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 8 bivouacs, including:
    • sitting in a tent — 3
    • semi-reclining in a tent — 4
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