Ascent Record

1. Climbing area: Kamchatka. Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes.
2. Name of the peak: Ploskaya Dalnaya — Ushkovsky 3943 m. Eastern slope.
3. Suggested category of difficulty — 2A.
4. Type of route: ice and snow.
5. Height difference: 1200 m.
6. Route length: 2.5 km.
7. Average steepness: 35°.
8. Moving time: 7 hours.
9. Number of days: 1 day.

Introduction

In the center of the Pamir Mountains, in an area that remained a "blank spot" for a long time, between two seven-thousander peaks — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) — stands a nameless peak marked on the map as "5691". The summit ridge stretches from east to west and divides the Moskvina Glacier into two branches; to the north and south, the ridge drops off with ice falls and sheer walls. The highest point of the peak is located in the eastern part of the ridge. This area was not mapped until the early 1930s, and even after that, it was rarely visited — the approaches to the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier were too difficult. N.V. Krylenko with two companions was the first to circumnavigate the peak in 1933. His note lay in a large cairn at the lower point of the East Ridge for 33 years! Later, despite the inaccessibility, the area around Peak E. Korzhenevskoi was visited several times by various groups and even entire expeditions, but no attempt was made to climb the nameless peak "5691", which is an excellent panoramic point in the area. In July-August 1966, an expedition from the Central Sports and Tourism Council of the "Burevestnik" sports organization worked in the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier, with the goal of making several ascents of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi via new routes. During the high-altitude acclimatization, one of the expedition groups made the first ascent of the nameless peak "5691" on August 1, 1966, dedicating the climb to the 20th anniversary of the Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.

Description of the Route via the East Ridge

Description

First ascent of Peak 5731 from the Bivachny Glacier by participants of the Pamir expedition of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society August 4–7, 1967 Leader — V. Rudenya, coach — I. Polevoy. Participants:

• S. Slenzak
• V. Golub
• I. Batmanova
• V. Yefimov
• D. Kamayev
• A. Karatsuba

24

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Kalinina (6565 m) (first ascent) by the special group "Nurek" of CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table (2001) - 4.1 Mountain region: Pamir (Tajikistan) Range: at the junction of Akademiya Nauk and Petra Pervogo.
2. Name of the peak: Kommunizm (7495 m), route name: via S slope from Walter's Glacier through BSP and "Big Barrier" (Borodkin's variant via Dushanbe Pass)
3. Category of difficulty – 5Ba
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3000 m Route length: 7250 m.

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COMBAT TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF TURKESTAN MILITARY DISTRICT COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF UZSSR REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE USSR – STALIN PEAK (height 7495 m) VIA THE EAST RIDGE Tashkent 1958 ROUTE SCHEMATIC OF THE ASCENT TO STALIN PEAK (Height 7495 m)

I. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Stalin Peak

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, range — Central Pamir, Akademii Nauk range.
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kommunizma 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope of the Belyaev Glacier.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2825 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness up to 6950 m — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: on bivouacs — 4 rock; for belay: rock — 33, ice — 14.
7. Number of climbing hours — 32.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: three nights at heights 6100, 6700, 6950 m.
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area, ridge - Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope from Belyaev Glacier 4. Difficulty category - 6 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2800 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. difficulty - 1975 m average steepness (up to 6950 m) - 54° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru