MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the peak Gronki (Bolshaya Belaya) 5050 m. Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too

via the northern ridge through the peaks:

• Beggar
• Ekstazi
• Yurnos Presumably 4A category of difficulty. First ascent Grigoryev D.R. - team leader

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Area, Ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Dikiy, 4930 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category: 36.25 кк ~ 504. . 2 . 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 790 m; sections of 5th difficulty category — none; average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolted: a) for belay — 12, 7; b) for creating i.t.o. (initial belay points). 7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours. 8. Number of overnight stays — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau ridge, p. Kyzyl Asker.
3. Peak Kyzyl Asker 5842 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1490 m, wall part 1170 m, wall part length 1280 m, average steepness of the wall part 69–71° 4350–4800 — 82° 4800–5400 — 73–76° 5400–5550 — 45–50°
6. Pitons driven:

Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia "Gory Baikala" Alpinism Club Report on the ascent of the team from the Republic of Buryatia for participation in the Russian Championship in Alpinism in the snow-ice class To the summit of Chon-Tor 4165 m Via the right bastion of the Northwest Wall 6A, first ascent Ulan-Ude 2016

Ascent Passport

1. 7.4 — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, Belogorka gorge (Sokuuluk river).

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge
3. Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face
4. Category 6B assumed, first ascent
5. Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face)
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m).
7. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau range
3. Peak — 4758 m (Pik Pozharnikh Geroyev Chernobylia via the north edge)
4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 858 m Section lengths:

• 3rd category of difficulty — 280 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 355 m Average slope:

Ascending Peak Maly Tourist via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B)

We leave the base camp, located on a sandbar in front of the tongues of Gl. Researchers and Chon-Turasu, at 10:30. Moving along the sandbar alongside a stream running near the tents, we approach the tongue of Gl. Chon-Turasu and begin to bypass it from the left (north) along the same stream. To our left are:

• heaps of enormous old moraines
• moraines lying on dead ice The stream disappears into the stones, and we come to a depression located between the scree slopes of the ridge between Pik Skalisty and Pik Maly Tourist to the north and the modern terminal and lateral moraines of Gl. Researchers to the south (old lateral moraines are absent). A large stream with clear water flows along the flat bottom of the hollow. The stream is not deep, and we cross it several times via stones. Soon the stream turns right, while we continue moving along the hollow. At 12:30, we ascend to a rampart (its upper part is covered with calcite boulders) blocking the hollow and enter a flat and almost horizontal gravel area about 150 m long and 30–50 m wide. After climbing the next rampart (from here, it's easy to ascend to the glacier's surface), we enter a second almost horizontal area. The area stretches for 400–500 m and ends under a powerful monolithic buttress descending from the ridge's bend before Pik Maly Tourist. The lower part of the area is silted, with a small lake. The lake is fed by:
• one large stream,
• several small streams from the slope of Pik Skalisty. The buttress descending from the ridge's bend cuts into the glacier (as do several other buttresses located higher along the glacier) and deflects it to the south. At the same time, it "dumps" the glacier's lateral moraine closer to its middle. This explains the formation of such large depressions and the absence of a lateral moraine on the glacier.

Description of the ascent to the summit of Aelita via the Central Couloir from the wall. Route category 4, combined.

From the base camp located in the Chon-Uryukty valley below Assol peak, move in the direction of the Western Cirque glacier. Following the path on the left (orographic) side of the stream, then along the left (in the direction of travel) moraine bank, overcoming 2 of its ridges, exit into the Western Cirque. Here is a suitable place for an overnight stay, with water (a small lake) and convenient platforms. From the base camp I - 5–2 hours. From the overnight stay location, move towards Aelita peak, bypassing the 3rd moraine ridge from the left in the direction of travel, and exit onto the glacier. Move across the glacier towards the snow bridge over the bergschrund, located directly under the "heel" of Aelita's Central Couloir, to a steep snow slope (in the second half of summer, ice may be exposed on the slope). This is the starting point of the route. From the overnight stay location: I, 5–2 hours. Up the steep snow slope at 30–35° (section 0–1), in teams, exit under the bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge (section 1–2), and then directly under the "shoe" rocks (section 2–3). Movement is alternating, with ice axe belay; for the first person in the team, crampons are recommended due to potential ice exposure on section 2–3. For organizing a rappel, it is recommended to use the "shoe" rocks if the snow condition does not allow for a reliable anchor using an ice axe.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungay Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Drakon, height — 3880 m, route — via Western ridge, combined
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: – height difference — 370 m – average steepness — 40° – length of 5th category sections — 14 m
6. Pitons hammered:

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m