Ascent Passport

Ascent class — combined
Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungay Alatau ridge
Peak — Drakon, height — 3880 m, route — via Western ridge, combined
Estimated difficulty category — 4A
Route characteristics: – height difference — 370 m – average steepness — 40° – length of 5th category sections — 14 m
Pitons hammered: – for belay — 18, for creating I.T.O. — 2 – rock pitons — 18
Overnights on the route — none
Total climbing hours — 8 hours
Group composition: – Ganyalin V.A. — Candidate for Master of Sports, leader – Budylko D.I. — 1st sports category, participant – Zabara B.M. — 1st sports category – Litvinov A.V. — 1st sports category
Team coach — Ganyalin B.A.
Date of departure on the route and ascent — July 19, 1981

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Date	Designation	Average steepness in degrees	Length in meters	Route character	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Rock pitons	Ice pitons and ladders
19.07.	0–1	35	100	snow slope	1	avalanche deposits	clear		simultaneously
1981	1–2	45	150	snow couloir	2	firn, ice under snow	fog	4 pcs	ice axe
	2–3	60	40	couloir	3	loose rocks, broken rocks	cloudy	3	–
	3–4	80	10	inner corner	4	solid rocks	—"	1	–
	4–5	45	70	scree ledge	1	medium scree	—"		simultaneously
	5–6	50	40	rocky ledge	3	broken rocks	—"	1	rock outcrops
	6–7	–	15	rocky ledge for 1 person, scree	4	rubble on ledge, on sheer	—"	1	–
	7–8	30	60	rocky ridge	2	solid rocks	—"		rock outcrops
	8–9	85	4	wall (traverse on sheer)	5	monolith	—"		–
	9–10	20	40	ridge	2	broken rocks	graupel	—"	–
	10–11	60	40	rocky edge	4	solid rocks	snowfall	2	–
	11–12	45	15	ledge	4	smooth slab	snow		rock outcrops
	12–13	90–	10	wall	5	monolith	—"	5	ladders
	13–14	–	30	ridge with pinnacles	3	solid rocks	—"		rock outcrops
	14–15	45	15	slab	4	—"	cloudy	1	–
	15–16	40	80	rocky ridge	2	broken rocks	—"		rock outcrops
	16–17	65	40	rocky wall	4	solid rocks	—"	2	–

Middle and upper part of Drakon's Western ridge

section 5–6

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