6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

99. Dinamo via the East Ridge. The route is rocky, category III (fig. 5, 87, 9.5, 97, 101, 102). Length 1000 m, II 550 m, time 4 hours 10 minutes. The approach path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size not limited) to the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of the upper Beketty gorge is described in route 1. From the initial bivouac, approach the left side of the broad base of the East ridge of Dinamo peak. From the moraine, a 15-meter ascent up difficult simple rocks on the northeast slope of the North ridge. Then, 140–150 m up and to the right along a simple slope with easy scree shelves to a couloir, and up it 40–50 meters to the East ridge. Then, traverse 800–1000 meters along scree and easy broken rocks under the rocky walls of the left slope of the long East ridge, with numerous sharp gendarmes, to approach the summit rise. Up easy broken rocks, scree alternating with short simple walls ("live" rocks, protection) on the left side of the rise, ascend to the summit ridge and along it to the summit of Dinamo. From the initial bivouac, 3–4 hours.

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

66. Avitsenna from the Southeast, Category 1B route, Fig. 36

From the bivouac on the upper moraine of the Avitsenna Glacier, ascend to the upper plateau of the cirque across firn fields. Several snowfields rise towards the summit on the right, transitioning into couloirs and talus slopes in their upper parts. Ascend via the second snowfield, and in its upper part, transition to easy rocks interspersed with large talus sections. Maintain a general ascent direction towards a snowy shoulder to the left of the summit. Fig. 36. From the shoulder, move rightward along the easy rocks of the ridge to a wide chimney with large jammed stones. Ascend to the summit via the left wall of the chimney and easy rocks. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

40. Bakhubi from the Bakhubi Pass, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 19. (Kuznetsov A., Egorkina I., Ershova N., Maikutova A., Popogrebsky A., Shukurov A. — 1953) The ascent to the summit is made from the Bakhubi Pass, located to the southwest of the summit. The pass can be reached from the north from the Maykhura valley via the Yak Archa gorge and the glacier, as well as from the south from the Siama gorge along grassy and scree slopes. In both cases, the approaches take about 8 hours. From the pass, bypass the ridge on the left along a snowy slope for about 200 m. Exit to the ridge along a rockfall-prone gully. Belaying is necessary. Further movement along the ridge is over heavily destroyed rocks. The rocks are easy or moderately difficult. BAKHUBI GLACIER BAKHUBI PASS Fig. 19. 40 Before the summit, overcome a gendarme. Bypass the second gendarme on the left along a ledge. Below the summit, there is a small snowpatch, below which one needs to traverse along the rocks and ascend to the summit.

Russian Mountaineering Federation

The approach is similar to the one to "Hosilot" peak up to the overnight stay location. From the overnight stay location, we head north-northeast along a large scree with a slope of 30–35°. Rock outcrops are often found on the scree. The landmark is an osypnaya saddle visible from below. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the saddle. From the saddle, we traverse the rocks with a slope of up to 30° to the left, which are covered with fine scree. The direction is towards an ice couloir that ends in a rock wall. It takes 30–40 minutes to reach the ice couloir. The ascent up the ice couloir is 150 m with a slope of 30–35° in crampons (the ice is porous). Belaying is possible on the rocks of the couloir. From the couloir, we exit onto rocks with a slope of 45–50°. The belay is with pitons, 3 × 60 m, and we reach the summit. The first ascent was made in August 1969 by: L. P. Lapshin, Candidate for Master of Sports T. N. Solovyova, Master of Sports V. I. Lavrukhin, Category I Descent is via the ascent route. Recommended category: 2B Approved

10. Znachokist from the White Pyramid circus, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 5.

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's East Glacier, under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks, approach the Nishon pass — between the peaks IV of the Siama Crown and Znachokist. The approach takes about an hour. When traversing all the peaks of the Siama Crown, be cautious as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. When ascending to the Nishon pass, exit to the left of the first sharp gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not reaching the second gendarme on this ridge, traverse the slope to the left on the snow. Approach the couloir descending from the peak's ridge along the slope. Ascend the ridge on the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and then along the inclined slab. Ascend to the peak along the simple rock on the ridge. The peak is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the peak takes about an hour. The descent from the peak is north along the ridge. After 8–10 minutes, turn sharply west and descend along the snow patch into the White Pyramid's East Glacier circus. Then turn south and exit to the moraine to the bivouac under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks. The ascent takes 5 hours.

28. Bolshoy Igizak from Naizgba Pass, category 2A route, fig. 14.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, proceed upwards along the Igizak River through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. Then, turn right and begin ascending through a snow-filled depression under the northern slopes of Maly Igizak peak. Before reaching the slopes of Bolshoy Igizak, traverse left towards Naizgba Pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. Fig. 14. From the pass, ascend upwards via scree, keeping the ridge to the right. After circumventing the lower part of the ridge, access it via ledges and continue moving along the ridge over moderately difficult rock terrain, overcoming short walls interspersed with ledges. Belaying is simultaneous and alternating. Before reaching the summit, prior to a steep rise in the ridge, exit the ridge to the right via ledges into a narrow couloir and ascend approximately 30 m through it. The upper part involves navigating large, wedged rock blocks. The couloir leads to the western ridge of the peak, from where the summit is reached to the right via snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge — route 27. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

13. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the Tsirk of Belaya Piramida, 16 km/tr. route, fig. 5

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the East glacier of Belaya Piramida under the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, approach the 4th peak. When bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, one should be cautious, as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. The ascent to the peak goes via a snowy couloir leading to the ridge to the right of the peak. Then move along the ridge for 50–60 m until reaching slabs inclined to the southeast towards the Siam Valley. The slabs are climbed on the right with running belay. Then, via easy rocks, staying to the right of the ridge, reach the peak. The descent from the peak is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5 hours. Fig. 5

Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11. In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges. Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam. The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours. The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible. After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch. Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.