Russian Mountaineering Federation
The approach is similar to the one to "Hosilot" peak up to the overnight stay location. From the overnight stay location, we head north-northeast along a large scree with a slope of 30–35°. Rock outcrops are often found on the scree. The landmark is an osypnaya saddle visible from below. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the saddle. From the saddle, we traverse the rocks with a slope of up to 30° to the left, which are covered with fine scree. The direction is towards an ice couloir that ends in a rock wall. It takes 30–40 minutes to reach the ice couloir. The ascent up the ice couloir is 150 m with a slope of 30–35° in crampons (the ice is porous). Belaying is possible on the rocks of the couloir. From the couloir, we exit onto rocks with a slope of 45–50°. The belay is with pitons, 3 × 60 m, and we reach the summit. The first ascent was made in August 1969 by:
L. P. Lapshin, Candidate for Master of Sports T. N. Solovyova, Master of Sports V. I. Lavrukhin, Category I
Descent is via the ascent route. Recommended category: 2B Approved
