Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
6. Left on the route:
   • rock pitons — 5
   • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
   • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation

of Arkhangelsk Region

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical and High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent of the team from Arkhangelsk Region and Tatarstan Republic to the summit of Erydag Northwest, 3887 m, via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, following Shanovazov's route, 2005, category 6B Leader: Dmitry A. Rybalchenko Participants:

• Mikhail A. Veshchagin
• Rasim G. Kashapov

Report

of the St. Petersburg Alpine Federation team on the ascent of Sel'dy peak (3664 m) via the Southwest wall The proposed category of complexity is 3A

Eastern Caucasus.

Team leader: Kirill A. Mazurov Team coach: Tatiana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg 2017

Ascent Passport

FIRST ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — 2.9. Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — 2nd Zap. Yarydag via the 10-3 buttress (3900 m) 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; average steepness — 65°; Length of sections: R1–150 m, R2–250 m, R3–40 m, R4–40 m, R5–60 m, R6–180 m. 6. Pitons used:

605646

ASCENT REPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS: Rock climbing
2. ASCENT AREA, MOUNTAIN RANGE: 2.10 (2B) Dagestan Mountains, Eastern Caucasus
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Mt. Sel'dy 3664 m via the diagonal crack on the Southwest wall, rock climbing.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 4A
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference — 360 m; length of sections with 4–5 difficulty category — 270 m; average steepness of the route — 55°; wall section steepness — 59°.
6. PITONS PLACED:
   • Chocks — 53/2
   • Rock pitons — 31/2

Mt. Sel'dy 3664 m. Description of the route via Kosaya Shchel' on the Southwest wall 4A (Velikanov V. Yu.) It is convenient to set up a storm camp under 2A on Sel'dy, from there it's a 40-minute approach to the route. The main landmarks of the route:

• an oblique crack above the terrace;
• a black wall with a runnel. Clearly visible on the approach. The start of the route is logically located under the landmarks along the couloir and easy rocks. A photograph through binoculars (the lower part of the route is not visible). From the start of the route to the terrace takes 1.5–2 hours depending on the condition of the route and the group's talent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.9.a, Dagestan mountains
2. Ascent class: rock climbing
3. Peak, its height: Tlili-meer, 2456 m
4. Ascent route: via NW ridge and from S
5. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 40°, section lengths: Ia difficulty — 1000 m, Iб — 80 m, II — 80 m.
7. Pitons: rock — 7, chocks — 2
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: overnight stay behind Gogoтль village

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent class.
2. Caucasus, region 2.10., Dagestan Mountains.
3. Tlimi-Mer 2456 m, from the south, rocky route.
4. Category 2B complexity.
5. Height difference 450 m, total route length — 1200 m, sections of 1st cat. diff. – 1020 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 45 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 10 m, 4th cat. diff. – 125 m, average steepness of the route 45°.
6. Used: rock pitons – 6 pcs., chocks – 5 pcs.
7. Moving hours – 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay under the lower rocky belt, under the cornice between two waterfalls (2000 m).
9. Leader: Konstantin E. Dorro — Candidate Master of Sports

2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 900 m

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.