Tsikhvarga

Tsikhvarga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gurdzivtsék pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass rises the Saual­khoyne peak. The northern ridge of Tsikhvarga turns into a long spur with the peaks:

• Tsagor
• Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches.

79. Tsikhvarga via the Southeast ridge, category 2B (L. Gutman, A. Dashkov, A. Krasnov, N. Nekrasova, N. Firsova, August 12, 1937). From the village Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) cross the Karaugom river by bridge and reach the village Nogkau by forest road. Then ascend by forest trail on the right side of the Karaugom gorge to the first tributary of Karaugom - the Bartuy river, cross it by bridge, then by forest trail high above the right bank of Karaugom approach the second tributary - the Iske river and ford it a little above the waterfall. From here - by trail on the moraine ridge to the Fastag river, which is forded or crossed by bridge. In half an hour, the forest trail will lead to the beautiful "Paradise clearing", surrounded by forest and rocks. From the village Dzinaga 8-12 hours. From the "Paradise clearing", passing by forest trail slightly upstream along the gorge, ford to the right bank of Fastag or, descending, cross by temporary bridge. By trail on the right bank of Fastag:

Fig. 4 10. Tsukhgarty via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4A difficulty, Fig. 4). From the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) ascend via grassy slopes and then moraines to the right and upwards (northeast) towards the areas near a small lake below the Tsukhgarty glacier, beneath the Sugansky Ridge saddle, which connects the Nakhashbita peak on the left and Tsukhgarty on the right. The journey from the "Nakhashbita" meadow takes 1 hour 15 minutes. From the lake, ascend the steep slope (possible rockfall — belaying required) of the Tsukhgarty glacier:

• approach a small icefall, which is bypassed on the right side closer to the rocks of Tsukhgarty peak
• after the icefall, ascend the narrow glacier (exposed to rockfall from Nakhashbita and Tsukhgarty slopes) in the direction of the snowy slope of the couloir descending from Nakhashbita pass, located between its large gendarme and the Main Nakhashbita peak — on the left The journey from the lake takes 2–2.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge (belaying required) and continue ascending, sticking to the right side of the ice-snow couloir (possible rockfall) or the destroyed rocks on its right side (belaying required). In the middle part of the couloir, exit onto the ridge and then ascend an 70–80-meter slope (pitons belay) to reach the Sugansky Ridge saddle to the left of the Big Gendarme. Ascent time:

Mountainous region of Digoria, Karagoma and Tsey

Chashmura

Peak Bezymyannaya–I (3700 m) Ascent via the Western ridge from the Southern branch of the Tanatseti peak Group composition:

1. Kononova E.P. — team leader, Candidate for Master of Sports
2. Grishkevich A.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Vasilenko V.N. — participant, 1st sports category
4. Baranenko V.D. — participant, 3rd sports category

Fig. 5 13. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the South Ridge (combined route by A. Toporenko, category III difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–8 people):

• ascend along the crest of the left-bank moraine through the gorge to its end, where you exit to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier
• on the left side of the glacier, then along the slope of its northeastern branch, approach the ice-and-snow couloir descending on the left side of the south ridge of

Fig. 35 166. Adai (4404 m) via the East Ridge (a combined route by O. Shuster, Category III) From the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people), follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River upstream. After passing the "Green" hill, exit the left-bank moraine of the Skazsky Glacier onto the glacier. Cross to the right:

• the glacier,
• a destroyed, grass-covered rocky slope,
• and approach a rocky couloir. Here, turn left and move straight up the couloir (possible rockfall). Exit the couloir onto the left destroyed rocky slope. Ascend it, then a snowfield, and further up destroyed rocks to reach the platforms (Skazskie overnight stays) at the level of the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier. These platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the CSP of the Tsey region, 4-5 hours. From the platforms, descend to the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier and, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the ice-snow slope of the wide saddle of the Skazsky Pass. From the plateau:
• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,

ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL

(combined route, category 4A difficulty) Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier. From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt. Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.

3. ADAI VIA NORTH-WEST FACE The route is combined, category 4B. From the CSP of Tsey Region, take the road, then the trail to the ice camps on Tsey Glacier, then ascend to the "ram's foreheads" (north-western part of Tsey Icefall). Overnight on the medial moraine above the "ram's foreheads". Break camp after 3-4 hours. Move towards the large snowy couloir descending from Adai-Hohh massif. Ascend through a crevasse and the lower bergschrund on the ice-snow slope (separate couloirs detected) towards the rightmost couloir arm, overcoming crevasses, ascend 120 m to the bergschrund. Exit via a rocky ledge resembling a crevice, turn right onto a rocky counterfort (40 m). From the bivouac - 3 hours. Ascend rocky terrain of medium difficulty to the I ascent of the counterfort, then to the ridge (broken rocks) below the 2nd ascent of the counterfort (I control point). From exiting onto the counterfort - 2 hours. To the 2nd ascent - ascend rocky sections, at the end of the ascent - exit onto the ridge (4-5 ropes). 2-3 ropes - to the 2nd control cairn. From I control cairn - 2 hours. From the 2nd control cairn, follow the horizontal ridge to reach below the large lower angle. Exit into the angle via a ledge below the wall (snow-covered, possible rope installation). The angle is traversed on the left side via broken rocks, ascend through the center of the angle on ice (2 ropes). Here is the 3rd control cairn. From the 3rd control cairn - 2.5-3 hours. Then ascend the 3rd ascent:

• 40 m - broken rocks,
• 80 m - snow,
• 60 m - rocks.

Fig. 32 142. Peak Artsishevskogo via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 32). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac at Volginsky night camps is described in route 99. From Volginsky night camps, head to the Uilpatinsky Glacier, turn right, and approach the center of the wide, gently sloping (in its lower part) first snow-ice couloir on the right via the glacier's snow plateau. The couloir descends from the Tsey Ridge saddle, situated between Peak Oniiani on the right and the Uilarh massif on the left. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge from the glacier. Bypassing the rocky ridge rising through the center of the couloir on the left, ascend the right side of the gradually steepening ice-snow couloir (avalanches and rockfall possible - piton belay) to the snowy saddle (large cornice) of the ridge. From Volginsky night camps - 1 hour. At the saddle, turn left and ascend a 45-50-meter steep snowy slope to the East Ridge of Peak Artsishevskogo. Follow the occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) 200-meter East Ridge to a destroyed rocky ledge. Traverse a 40-50-meter ledge on the left side of the rocky ridge to reach a snowy slope, then approach the rocky tower of Peak Artsishevskogo. Ascend 60 meters directly up the simple to moderately difficult rocks of the tower's wall ("loose" rocks, piton belay) to the summit. From under the tower's wall, it is possible to:

• descend 25-30 meters down the snowy slope to the left,

Bivuachnaya

In the center of the Karau­gom plateau, a low, technically simple snow-capped peak Bivuachnaya (4150 m) rises. It is connected to the Krasnoflotets peak, located in the Tsey ridge, by a low ice-snow saddle, which drops to the Central branch of the plateau with an ice fall. The convenient rock platforms at the foot of the Western ridge of Bivuachnaya are used by climbers as a starting bivouac for ascents to the surrounding plateau peaks. It is mandatory to take a tent on the routes, as it is often impossible to find a bivouac in the fog on the plateau.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.