Fig. 35
- Adai (4404 m) via the East Ridge (a combined route by O. Shuster, Category III)
From the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people), follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River upstream. After passing the "Green" hill, exit the left-bank moraine of the Skazsky Glacier onto the glacier. Cross to the right:
- the glacier,
- a destroyed, grass-covered rocky slope,
- and approach a rocky couloir.
Here, turn left and move straight up the couloir (possible rockfall). Exit the couloir onto the left destroyed rocky slope. Ascend it, then a snowfield, and further up destroyed rocks to reach the platforms (Skazskie overnight stays) at the level of the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier. These platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the CSP of the Tsey region, 4-5 hours.
From the platforms, descend to the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier and, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the ice-snow slope of the wide saddle of the Skazsky Pass. From the plateau:
- overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
- ascend a gentle snow slope,
- navigate or cross crevasses via snow bridges,
- reach the right side of the saddle of the Skazsky Pass.
From the initial bivouac, 1.5-2 hours.
At the pass, turn right and ascend the snow slope to reach the East Ridge of Adai peak. From here, move along a simple, partially snow-covered (cornices) ridge, bypassing gendarmes on the left. Traverse the "Rogatka" gendarme in the center via a 4-5-meter wall. Behind it, follow simple, destroyed, and snow-covered (cornices) rocks of the long East Ridge to approach the Big (last) gendarme (ascent).
Overcome the Big gendarme head-on via:
- simple rocks,
- rocks of medium difficulty,
and exit onto an ice-snow slope. From here, ascend straight up a steep 70-100-meter ice-snow slope (possible avalanches - hook protection) between ice seracs or snow cornices to the snow dome of Adai peak. From the Skazsky Pass, 4-5 hours.
Descend via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.
Source:
- Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.