II Δ ⊂ Π ∘ P T

I. The route is rock climbing 2. Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too 3. Peak Bokc, center of the eastern wall 4. First ascent 5. Height difference: 840 m, route length: 1780 m sections:

• I cat. diff. — 80 m
• II cat. diff. — 140 m
• III cat. diff. — 480 m

Re­port on the first as­cent of the route to Pik Boks via the north­ern wall (ice gul­ly).

As­cent Data

1. Tian-Shan, Kyr­gyz Range, Ala-Ar­cha val­ley. Pik Boks, 4240 m, via the ice gul­ly of the north­ern wall. Pro­posed cat­egory 4A, first as­cent. Na­ture of the route — com­bined. El­e­va­tion gain 600 m. Route length 850 m.
2. Sec­tion lengths: II cat. — 300 m, III — 350 m, IV — 200 m.
3. Av­er­age steep­ness: main sec­tion — 50° O­ver­all steep­ness — 45°
4. Pitons left: to­tal — 0;

Route Label

	Peak Boks, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall	Difficulty Category
		□
	Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich
	Kyrgyzsky Ridge
	№1.2

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Boks, 4242 m, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, category 4B, I. Pugachyov, 2007.

Bishkek — 2007. Climbing Passport

Report

On ascending peak Bokh via the route on the left part of the S wall (Mikhailova M.M.) 5B category of complexity by the team of a/c Black Ice for the period from January 4 to January 6, 2020

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Stepanov Nikolay Anatolyevich, CMS.
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Lebedev Nikolay Mikhailovich, CMS.
1.3	Full name of the coach	-
1.4	Organization	a/c Black Ice
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m.
2. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m,
3. Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30°
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 0;
5. Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20.
6. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Korona 2 tower 3B (V. Akmayov, 2011)

• R0–R1. Snow slope 100 m. 40° II
• R1–R2. Ice slope 100 m. 45° III
• R2–R3. Ice gully 150 m. 50° IV
• R3–R4. Snow slope 500 m. 30° II
• R4–R5. Snow-ice slope 600 m. 45° III

Ascent Log

of the Tyumen Region combined alpine team (Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation) to Peak Korona 5th Tower via the Sadovsky Route, category 5B, as part of the Russian Alpine Championship, correspondence class for high-altitude technical ascents. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak name: Korona 5th Tower, 4860 m Route: V. Sadovsky's Route (1968) - southwest wall, category 5B Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 860 m Route length: 900 m Section lengths:

• category 2: 200 m

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.