Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to

79. Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:

• Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
• Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty

41. Be­laia Ne­zna­kom­ka via the South­west Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadesh­keliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8). From the “Zes­ho” al­plager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager. From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of

85. Vakhushti via the Western slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 5, 18). From the middle plateau of the Inguri glacier (m. 89) (avalanches, ice falloffs), turn right and ascend to the right of the Lower rocky outcrop along the steep 60–80-meter ice and snow gully of Vakhushti Western slope. Then 400–500 m along the gentle ice and snow Western slope (closed crevasses, belay) to the right side of the large ice fall above the rocky outcrop located in the center of the Western slope. Go around the outcrop with the ice fall along the steep ice and snow slope on the right (avalanches, belay) with a traverse through the ice and snow 25–30-meter couloir (stones, pitons) and come out to a small rocky outcrop. From the outcrop, along the 40–60-meter ice and snow ascent (piton

127. Jangitao West via South Face (combined route, Yu. Reformatsky, cat. 5B, fig. 20, 22).

From the "Morena Khalde" base camp, cross the Khalde glacier and approach the narrow snow-ice couloir descending from beneath the main summit of Jangitao. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 150–200 m up the couloir (stones, rockfall, avalanches). Then, ascend 150 m up the snow-covered, moderately difficult rocks of the Lower Rocky Outcrop ("live" stones) to a ledge. Variant by Ya. Fleyberg and E. Kulgap group. Without entering the couloir, exit onto the rocks on the right side of the South Face's base and ascend moderately difficult and more difficult rocks upwards to the right, bypassing the couloir, to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend 200–250 m up walls, slabs, and "ram's foreheads" of more than moderate difficulty, bypassing the Yellow Tower on the right, to a ledge beneath a wall. From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m up a difficult wall ("live" stones) to the summit of the Lower Middle Rocky Outcrop. From the outcrop, descend 80–100 m down a snow-ice slope to the base of the Right Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 200–220 m up moderately difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop ("live" stones) to its summit, and then ascend a 30–40-meter steep snow-ice slope to beneath the Upper Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 150–200 m up more than moderately difficult, partly difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop to a snowy ridge on the outcrop's summit. Bivouac. 12–15 hours from the base camp. From the bivouac, ascend 300–350 m up a snow-ice slope, then 80–100 m up a narrow snow-ice couloir between the walls of the Black Tower on the right and the "Tooth" on the left to a col. Then:

• Ascend 100–120 m up moderately difficult rocks and a snow-ice slope to a col behind the Black Tower. From there:
• Ascend 200–250 m up a steep snow-ice ridge-slope with rock outcrops;
• then, ascend 120–150 m up an icy rocky couloir;

86. Inguri via the Southwest Edge (a combined route, V. Sycheva, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 18). On the right side of the broken Middle Plateau of the Inguri glacier (m. 89) (closed crevasses, avalanches on the right, icefall collapses) approach the Southwest slopes of the Inguri summit. 120–150 m from the Western ridge of Inguri, turn right and ascend 350–400 m up the broken ice-and-snow slope. Having passed to the right of the base of the Southwest Edge, behind the gendarme turn left and ascend 120–150 m to a scree area on the Southwest Edge. From the Upper Inguri Plateau 4–5 hours. Here, turn right and ascend 120–150 m up simple, heavily destroyed rocks of the Southwest Edge. 40 m up to the left of the corner, ascend a wall of above-average difficulty to a wide ledge. From the ledge, 40 m up steep rocks of average difficulty to an ice-and-snow slope. Then 100–120 m up and to the right along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rock outcrops to the shoulder. From the shoulder, 40–50 m up a wall of above-average difficulty on the left side of the Southwest Edge (key location) to the Southwest Edge. By the wide, snow-covered Southwest Edge, reach a plateau (cairn). From the glacier 6–8 hours. From the plateau, 200–220 m up rocks of average difficulty of the wide South Edge to a 20-meter ascent, which is overcome by a wall of above-average difficulty. Then 100 m along simple and average difficulty snow-covered monolithic rocks of the Southwest Edge to a 15-meter wall, pass it head-on through a cleft. From the wall, 60–80 m up and to the right along a snow-covered inclined ledge, bypass the pre-summit ascent and ascend steep rocks of average difficulty on the left side of a narrow 40–50-meter couloir to the Southwest ridge. Along the simple 60–80-meter ice-and-snow (cornices) Southwest ridge, ascend to the summit of Inguri. From the initial bivouac on the Upper Inguri Plateau 12–14 hours.

28. Mardjanishvili via the Eastern Ridge (ice and snow route, category II difficulty, figs. 5, 6). From the areas below Sharivtsék Pass (r. 18) turn left and ascend along the stream, then via a grassy moraine left of the waterfalls, and a snowy slope with rocky ridges. Above the waterfalls, turn right and, via a 3–5-meter rocky ascent, reach an ice and snow slope. Ascend the gentle slope towards the left side of the Western Saddle of Sharivtsék Pass. Without reaching the pass, turn left and, along a gentle snowy slope, bypass the first rocky sentinel of Mardjanishvili’s Eastern Ridge on the left (beware of rockfall from the sentinel). From the upper areas, 1–1.5 hours. For the ascent path to the first sentinel of the Eastern Ridge from the Lower Camps, see r. 29. From the I sentinel, ascend 200 m up a snowy slope on the left side of the Eastern Ridge

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category – combined
2. Ascent area:
   • from Kitlod pass
   • to Gezevcek pass
   • Main Caucasian Range, from the South
3. Galaktion Tobidze Peak Height 4000 m Ascent route via the Southern ridge
4. Suggested category of difficulty — 3B

Arkhimed peak via V. Greben, 3A

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend the gorge along the trail of the Ukyu glacier’s terminal moraine, then along the glacier, bypassing the northern buttresses of the 3rd ridge on the left, to the snow-ice slope leading to Ural Pass –1.5–2 hours (From the “dovecote” –3/4–1 hour). Up the middle part of the slope (rockfall hazard on the first half of the ascent from the left from the slopes of the 1st gendarme of the 3rd ridge of p. Ural) into the cirque under the pass, and up — to the pass (fig. 1). From the bivouac 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the pre-summit “gendarme” begins along the rock ledge to the right of the ridge for 20 m and then up 40 m into the ridge’s gap (possible snow, flow ice). From the gap, descend to a ledge on the S side, along the ledge for 10 m and then up the internal angle for 30 m with piton belay to the ridge. Along the ridge simultaneously — to the top of the “gendarme”, here is a control cairn. Descent from the “gendarme”: 1st option — from the summit to the 3rd km to the protrusion, from it on a doubled rope, 7–10 m sportively down the smooth slab into the wide rock chimney. Along the chimney and then along the rocks to the left of the ridge to the isthmus (so-called “hole”), covered from above by a huge flat stone; 2nd option — from the summit first S ~40 m, then along the SW wall ledges to the same isthmus. From the isthmus, a planned or emergency descent to the N side is possible: rappel down the inclined internal angle, then down the broken rocks, two sports pitches leading into the cirque under the pass, then along the ascent route. From the isthmus, along the broken rocks to the left of the ridge, up to the snowy shoulder of the summit, then traverse left along the ledge to the rock couloir and up it with a S exit to the E summit. From the pass 3–4 hours.