PASSPORT

I. Class — ice and snow 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge 3. Peak "20 let gazety 'Komsomolets Kirgizii'" (4700 m) via the right part of the north face, ice and snow route 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference — 1050 m, length — 1350 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1100 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° 6. Pitons driven:

• rock — 2
• bolt — 0

Passport

1. Ice-snow class
2. Terskey Ala-Too, Baytor gorge
3. Peak Baytor (4700 m), via the icy couloir of the northern wall
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty (second ascent)
5. Elevation gain: 850 m, length — 1550 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 730 m, length — 910 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 650 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 52° (3850–4580 m).
6. Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :----------: | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |

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Passport

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Terskey Ala-Too, Bantor gorge
3. Summit "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the north face of the western shoulder.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 750 m, length — 965 m Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (3700–4450) Average steepness of the rocky part — 63° (3820–4030)

Passport

I CLASS 2-technical. Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. Oguz-Bashi Peak (5170) via North-East wall. 4A cat. diff. Height difference: 1600 m, wall section: 900 m. Length: 2700 m (including descent to the glacier). Length of sections with 5-6 diff.: 700 m. Average slope of the route: 55°, with 6 diff.: 75°. Pitons used:

• rock: 25
• ice: 32
• chocks: 16.5 Team's travel time: 48 hours, days: 4.

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
5. Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
6. Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ice and snow
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
5. Height difference — 665 m
6. Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
7. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Technical Ascent Region — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jedy-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Dostyk peak, 4300 m, ascent route via North-Eastern ridge 4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 580 m, average steepness 45° 6. Pitons hammered in: for rock protection — II, ice — 0, bolt — 0

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Tian-Shan Ala-Too, Dekety-Boguya gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 406 m, via N-E ridge 4. Proposed category — 2B category difficulty 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths: snow — 100 m, ice — — , rocks — 460 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock — none, ice — none

Ascent Route to the Summit

(Mt. Akstinas, 4250 m, Category 2B difficulty) The summit of Mt. Akstinas is located in the Tian Shan mountain range, on a spur of the Terskey-Alatau ridge, which runs from west to north and from the west side closes the Karakol valley. The summit of Mt. Akstinas together with the summit of Litovskikh Alpinistov (total ridge length — 2 km) closes a rocky amphitheater filled with eternal snow and ice. The path from the base camp, which is located at the confluence of the two rivers On-Tor and Kol-Tor, goes along a trail on the left bank of the Ot-Tor River to the tongue of the On-Tor glacier. Here are the "lower" campsite, the journey takes 4 hours. The "upper" campsite is located on the southern green slope of the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit. The path to the "upper" campsite:

• along the right lateral moraine to the On-Tor glacier;
• then, bypassing the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit from the left, we cross over to the glacier located on the right. The journey to the "upper" campsite takes 2-3 hours. The path then leads to the summit of Mt. Akstinas. We ascend a steep moraine to the Bezymyannyy glacier, and along it to the saddle between the Bezymyannaya and Mt. Akstinas summits. The journey takes 3-4 hours.

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.