5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of peak Borovikov (4880 m) via NE wall, category 5B difficulty Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge. Elevation gain 1800 m Route length 3040 m Average slope 42° Route character combined Section lengths:

• 5 — 285 m
• 6 — 50 m Team's moving hours – 32; days – 3

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Peak name: Gestemony; route name: via the North wall (M. Khergiani, 1959)
3. Complexity category: 5Б
4. Route character: combined
5. Route height difference: 1960 m (by altimeter) Route length: 2990 m. Section length: V category: 938 m, VI category: 140 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 65 °

JANGI (E), Eastern Counterfort - 5B cat.

The route to East Jangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort is combined: its lower part is a rocky counterfort, the upper part is a snow-ice slope. The total length of the route is over 1600 m, the length of the rocky counterfort is 1000-1100 m. The average steepness of the rocky counterfort is 65-70°, with overhanging sections encountered on the route. The maximum steepness of the ice slope in the upper part of the route is 45-50°.

6. Description of the route by sections.

The initial bivouac is on a snow plateau under the base of the Eastern counterfort. The exit to the base of the counterfort is 120 m along a snowy slope at 40°. 40 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the base of the chimney (sect. a). The right wall of the chimney is a huge detached rock, the upper part is covered by an overhanging rock. The wall above the chimney is a continuation of its left side. The exit to the overhanging rock is 40 m either directly up the chimney (difficult climbing) or bypassing it on the right. Then there is a 15 m wall with two vertical slots. Ascent via the right slot, then in the upper part of the wall to the left slot and exit to the top of the wall. 40 m up the internal angle with an exit to the right onto inclined slabs (sect. b). Up the slabs to the base of a wide slot 5 m and up the slot to under a small cornice. Through the cornice, exit onto an inclined ledge and along it 40 m to the left to the junction of two walls (the ridge of the junction sect. b is visible in the photo).

137. DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak via North-Eastern ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 14, 15). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at Tyutyurgy pass is described in route 138, and to the Kopy pass - in route 135. From the initial bivouac, descend to the Bulungu glacier and ascend on the right side of its Southern branch towards the saddle of the North-Eastern ridge of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan peak. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend a steep 60-70-meter snowy slope to the saddle (cornice) of the North-Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow the straightforward snow-covered North-Eastern ridge, then ascend a steep 100-120-meter snowy slope (cornices, protection) of the North-Eastern ridge to reach the Zub gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the steep ice-snow slope on the right (protection). Continue on the straightforward, ruined, snow-covered, rocky North-Eastern ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak. 5-6 hours from the initial bivouac.

138. Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Se­ver­na­ya (North peak) via North­west ridge (combined route, 3A category, fig. 14, 15). From “Che­gem” tourist base (4-8 people group) follow the forest trail on the left bank of Gara­auz­su river upstream. After crossing Tyu­tyur­gu river, turn left and move up, first across alpine meadows and then across moraines along the right and then left bank of Tyu­tyur­gu river till reaching the tongue of Tyu­tyur­gu glacier. Move to the glacier and go along its left side (closed crevasses), bypass numerous crevasses and two icefalls from the left, ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier. In the cirque, turn left and approach the middle of the three snow couloirs descending from the Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Ascend via simple snow and then scree couloir to the scree col of Tyu­tyur­gu pass. Make a bivouac on the col. 4-5 hours from “Che­gem” tourist base. The path to Se­ver­na­ya (North) branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier via Ko­ru pass is described in route 135. Descend from Tyu­tyur­gu pass to the South branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier, turn right and ascend along the left slopes of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Having passed two gendarmes, turn right. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep snow slope to the col (cornice) of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak, to the left of a small sharp gendarme. On the col, turn left and ascend simple, destroyed, snow-covered rocks along Northwest ridge, passing I and II gendarmes. Further, ascend simple snow Northwest ridge (cornices), then a wide ice-snow slope to reach a snow dome. From the dome, ascend a simple, gently sloping snow Northwest ridge to approach the rocky ascent to West shoulder. Ascend simple, inclined, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the ascent (protection):

• 80-100 m ascent to West shoulder.

Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

7. Dykhni-Aush-bashi via the S ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "sickle-shaped" moraine onto the Bezengi glacier, along the left (upstream) side of the glacier (watch out: covered crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of peak Varsova) to the hollow at the base of the second S spur from the main Varsova—Sella ridge. Across the bottom of the hollow to the right and up into the cirque of Dykhni-Aush Pass and below the pass. From the hut 1.5–2 hours. Over the bergschrund and up a snowy slope (may involve 80–100 m of ice, protection via ice screws) to the pass and to the left to the start of the rocky ridge. 40–50 m with piton protection:

• either via an inside corner to the left of the ridge,
• or via simple rock to the right of the ridge. From here directly along the line of the ridge (watch out — dangerous on the left on the ledges: weak rock, possible ice), then along a level section to the left of the ridge to the pre-summit "gendarme". Climb onto the pre-summit "gendarme": from the ridge along a 5–7 m ledge to the left, then Dykhni-Aush-bashi.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: