Sayramsky District of the Ugam Range. Ascent to the "Kergely" peak, dedicated to the XIV Congress of the Komsomol. Category 1B. Height 3787.3 m.

You need to leave the bivouac located near the lake as early as possible, because the peak is quite far away (departure at 6:00 am at the latest). Moving along the right side of the ancient moraine, we reach the depression left by the ancient glacier. The approach to the depression takes 1.5–2 hours. From the depression, we ascend directly "head-on" up the steep snowfield, keeping to the left side, to reach easy rock terrain, and, continuing along the rocks or snow (if it's not loose), we reach the first ascent to the pass. The path from the depression to the end of the first ascent takes 40–60 minutes. Then begins the second ascent along a snowfield with a steepness of 45–50°. The path from the first ascent to the second takes 30 minutes. After that, we move to the third ascent and reach the pass. As we ascend to the third rise, we need to gradually move to the right towards three rocks protruding with sharp peaks. The entire path from the depression to the end of the third ascent is along the snow and takes one and a half to two hours. By-passing the three isolated rocks from the south, we reach the south-eastern ridge. The further path goes along the south-eastern ridge. The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks with small, loose scree. At first, the belay is organized alternately, and then, as we move forward, we can move simultaneously with running belay. Severely degraded rocks are circumvented from the south, slightly below, along the loose scree. Having reached the first depression, we descend into it and emerge onto the southern snowy slope. The slope has a steepness of 40–45°.

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then:

• ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks;
• descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus;
• from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

V. Teke (3870 m)

via the right buttress of the North Ridge, Cat. 2A The ascent starts from the Nefertiti campsite. Cross to the other side of the "Terek" river, then:

• Reach the last (rightmost) ridge that leads to the crest and begin ascending along the fir-covered talus slope.
• To the left, there is a snow (scree in summer) couloir-ridge with powerful gendarmes in the upper part. The approach to the start of the ridge from the campsite takes 30 minutes. Then, ascend along the talus, heavily eroded crest to the first rock walls. Movement up to this point is simultaneous. Tie in before the rock walls. Continue ascending along the rocky sections with intermittent insurance. The sections are Cat. 1-2. The length is 180-200 m.
• An 8-9 m rock is bypassed on the left via ledges that are 30-35 m long, Cat. 2.
• Insurance is provided through protrusions. The route continues along the ridge. Insurance is provided by a rope placed around protrusions. The path leads to a snowy slope with a 30-35° incline, insured via an ice axe, 25-30 m long; there may be cornices. Before reaching the summit ridge, there is a long 130-140 m snow ascent with a slope incline of up to 40°. Insurance is provided through ice axes. The path leads to the crest. The summit point is 250-300 m to the left. Along the way, there are simple rocks, Cat. 1B-2A. Insurance is provided along the crest. A summit cairn.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the bivouac located in the pocket of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier, ascend via soft and medium talus to the moraine of the NII glacier (30 min). Then, along the moraine of the NII glacier, approach the western slope of v. Bivachnaya, bypassing it on the right (30 min). The start of the route is in a wide couloir on the western slope of v. Bivachnaya.

Brief Explanation of the Table

Section R0–R1: Ascend via a wide snowy couloir located to the left of the summit to the rocky outcrops. Movement is simultaneous, with a slope steepness of 30°. Section R1–R2: Ascend via rocky outcrops, occasionally stepping onto snow, to the saddle. Belay with pitons (2 pitons). Rocks are of medium difficulty; steepness is 40°. Section R2–R3: From the saddle, move upwards to the right along the talus ridge to the summit (40 m). Movement is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route.

49. Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.

66. Avitsenna from the Southeast, Category 1B route, Fig. 36

From the bivouac on the upper moraine of the Avitsenna Glacier, ascend to the upper plateau of the cirque across firn fields. Several snowfields rise towards the summit on the right, transitioning into couloirs and talus slopes in their upper parts. Ascend via the second snowfield, and in its upper part, transition to easy rocks interspersed with large talus sections. Maintain a general ascent direction towards a snowy shoulder to the left of the summit. Fig. 36. From the shoulder, move rightward along the easy rocks of the ridge to a wide chimney with large jammed stones. Ascend to the summit via the left wall of the chimney and easy rocks. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

54

Description of the Traverse

V. Igizak (2A cat. dif.) V. Igizak is located in the southern spur of the Gissarsky Ridge and is the 20th peak to the west of the M. Igizak pass (the first from the pass is v. M. Igizak). From the overnight stay on the green meadow located under v. Bivachnaya, it is necessary to move up along the right bank of the Igizak river in the direction of the M. Igizak pass. The path goes along grassy slopes and scree, and after an hour's walk, you can approach the snowfields under the M. Igizak pass. To the right, a snow corrie diverges, along which you should ascend into the cirque of the Dvukhzubki and Igizak peaks. This ascent takes about an hour. From the east, the peak drops off with sheer rock walls of 500–600 m. By bypassing v. Igizak (leaving it to the left), you should exit onto its southwest ridge. The ascent to the summit from the ridge is combined (rock and snow), technically simple, and takes 30–40 min. The height of the peak above sea level is about 4200 m. The descent from the summit can be made along the Southeast ridge, starting from the southwest subsidiary summit, from where you should first descend for 15–30 min. along a narrow couloir with further exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, the path goes with alternate belay with a predominant exit to the right along the way. There are several short rock walls that can be passed with alternate belay. The further path passes along the ledges, to the right along the way with uncomplicated rocks, and leads to the Nayzakhba pass, from where we descend to the overnight stay. The entire traverse of v. Igizak from the overnight stay on the green meadow and back takes 6–7 hours.

Horseshoe of Sangalt Glacier

Ascent in this area is done from overnight camps: either on the left lateral moraine of Sangalt Glacier or from below Snezhny Pass. Pяти Pass connects Sangalt Glacier with Snezhny Pass. The approach along Sangalg valley to the camps takes 4–5 hours. Fig. 31.

Kruglaya

58. Kruglaya from the northwest, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 31 (Martynov V. with a group — 1953) From the bivouac on the moraine below Snezhny Pass, exit into the cirque towards the pass. The ascent to the summit is to the left, onto the ridge via a steep narrow couloir filled with snow; in its upper part, the couloir becomes the steepest. The summit is accessed via a steep, broken ridge. Many loose rocks. Traverse a short slope with large scree to reach a small snowfield. Follow the snow, bypassing individual rock outcrops, to approach the low rocks of the summit. The descent from the summit is to the east, on the right side of a narrow couloir. Rockfall hazard! Lower down, on the right side of the couloir, a terrace begins, follow it to its end. Descend 25 m down a steep chute to reach an inclined slab. Traverse the slab for 20 m to the next terrace, which leads to a steep chute. Cross the upper part of the chute, crest a low ridge, and follow black, easy rocks to reach Pяти Pass. From the pass, descend via snow to the bivouac. The ascent takes 5–6 hours.

32. Kulai Jawonon from the Bolshoi Igizak Pass, category 16, fig. 16.

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, follow the Igizak River along grassy slopes and scree, and higher up, snow, to ascend to the Bolshoi Igizak Pass. From the pass, head left towards the summit along the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, and the movement is simultaneous. After 200 m:

• Bypass a minor summit on the right, from which the ridge turns southeast.
• Follow the snowy ridge to the first summit.
• The steep ascent up the snowfield is done with alternating belays. On the way to the Main summit from the first, two gaps in the ridge are encountered. It's better to ascend via the snow to the left of the ridge. The exit to the summit is on snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge to a gap, and then onto the Kulai Jawonon glacier plateau and down the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. Fig. 16.