Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — winter.
2. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the left part of the north face.
4. Category — 6B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the ridge — 530 m, to the summit — 650 m; distance: to the ridge — 680 m, to the summit about 1000 m; distance of 6th category sections — 300 m, 5th category — 380 m; average slope to the ridge — 65°;

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent category
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, via N wall, W ridge, 4740 m
4. A. Kustovsky's route, 6A category; second ascent, first winter ascent
5. Route height difference 640 m
6. Total route length 924 m, including 625 m of wall section
7. Length of 6th category sections 204 m
8. Average route slope 63°

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Ascent route: Svobodnaya Koreya peak, 4740 meters, via the Central North Face route by V. Bezzubkin
4. Difficulty category: sixth
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 meters, sections of 5th-6th difficulty category, 1150 meters, average steepness 70°
6. Pitons used:
   • for belaying:
     • ice screws: 51
     • rock pitons: 76

Passport

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Aksay gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the centre of the North face
4. 6B
5. Elevation gain 1140 m, length 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 938 m. Average slope of the route 73°, main part (3710–4690) — 78°, including 6 difficulty category 80–85° (243 m), 87–95° (225 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock: 126 (25 used previously), bolt: 4 (new) + 4* (previously driven),

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea (4740 m) via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed category 6B (first ascent)
5. Height difference — 1040 m, length of the wall section — 920 m, including 5B — 506 m, 6B — 330 m, average steepness — 66°.
6. Pitons used: | rock | bolt | placed elem. | ice | | :--: | :--: | :----------: | :-: |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the central ice couloir on the S wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (reference).
5. Height difference — 820 m, length — 1675 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 535 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 20 / 0 | 0 / 0 | 5 / 0 | 60 / 0 |

St. Petersburg Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing

2015 Russian Championship

Ice and Snow Class, Correspondence Entry

Report

St. Petersburg National Team Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via North Face Semiletkin Route, 1988, Category 6A Winter Ascent St. Petersburg 2015

Ascent Passport

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Winter category. 2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyz range. 3. peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall, 4. Cat. dif. 5B. 5. Height difference 1000 m, length 1500 m, wall section height difference 650 m, length 830 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 570 m, average steepness of the wall section is 60°: 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chockstones | ice screws |

Description of the route by sections.

sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice. sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall. sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur. sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge. sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge. sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf. sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds. sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf. sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |