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Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent to the summit of Zapadny Yarydag via the southern route of category 4B complexity, including a description of the path and characteristic features.
To the report on the ascent to v. No. Zap. Yarydag via the S wall.
The photographs show the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the South.
(photo 1 — Distant view, photo 2 — Close-up view).
The route passes between the gendarmes "Zub" and the buttress, beyond which the SE wall of the peak begins. Thus, the route has natural limitations, and deviating from them is more challenging than the route itself. It is impossible to approach the first belay station from the side. The second belay station can be reached via the SE wall (see photo 3).
Photo 3 shows the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the SE, from the Kurush pass. The profile of the buttress separating the S and SE walls is visible, with "Zub" peeking out from behind it.
Although the route is not visible, the photograph gives an idea of the average steepness of the route — it should not be less than the average steepness of the buttress.
On the right part of the SE wall, there is a couloir and a snowy slope, which some groups have used to descend from the peak.
The first ascenders believe that the route is very logical, original (i.e., it does not repeat previously climbed routes and is not a variation of them), and deserves an assessment as a 4B category of difficulty route.
Photo 1. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south (from the trail to Kurush pass). The SW buttress is on the left.
Photo 2. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south, from under the route. Sections 5–6, 6–8, and 7–8 are practically not visible.
Route Description: 3 стене через левый колодец
First ascent description of 2nd Zapadnaya Yarydag peak (3900 m) by the western wall, difficulty category 5A, height difference 450 m, duration 16 hours.
First Ascent Passport
- Climbing category — rock climbing
- Climbing area — 2.9. East Caucasus Sel'dy (3664 m)
- Peak, its height, and ascent route — (2nd Zap. Yarydag (3900)) via West wall (through the right "well")
- Estimated difficulty category — 5A category
- Route characteristics:
height difference — 450 m
average steepness — 60–65°
section lengths:
- R1 — 80 m
Route Description: центру З стены
Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Selda Mt. (3664 m) by the team of Dagestan State University in 2004, complexity category 5B.
Russian Alpinism Championship 2004
First Ascent Category
Report
On the ascent by the Dagestan State University team on Mt. Sel'dy (3664 m) via the center of the western wall. First ascent
Team leader: Evgeny Grigoryevich Pashuk Makhachkala, 2004
Ascent Details
- Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay River valley.
- Sel'dy, 3664 m, 5B category of difficulty, via the center of the western wall.
Route Description: центру Ю стены
Report on the first ascent of the route of 1B category of difficulty through the center of the southern wall of Selda Vostochnaya peak in the Eastern Caucasus.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Sel'dy Vostochnaya via the center of the south wall (first ascent)
Climbing Passport:
- Rock climbing category
- Eastern Caucasus, Chehy-chay gorge, area from Kurush pass to Sel'dy peak
- Sel'dy Vostochnaya peak via the center of the south wall
- Proposed category: 1B. First ascent
- Height difference: 200 m
- 3 rock anchors and 1 chock used on the route
Route Description: с пер. Куруш, траверс
Traverse of the peaks I-st Zapadnaya Epadaz (4020 m) and Main Yarudag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3825 m), difficulty category 2A, rock class.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — traverse I-st Western Erydag (4020 m) — Main Yaru-dag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3925 m) 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 920–1010 m average slope — 50–60°, length of sections: R1 — 100, R2 — 150–200, R3 — 60, R4 — 300, R5 — 200, R6 — 100, R7 — 3000–3500 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock — 0, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 7 hours
Route Description: правой части ЮВ склона
Description of the first ascent of Tемиргох (3926 m) mountain in the Caucasus via the south-eastern slope, category 2A, made in January 1997.
Ascent Passport.
- Winter category.
- Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Temir-otrog ridge, Nukatl ridge.
- Temirgokh, 3926, via the right part of the Southeast slope, combined route.
- 2A category difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 30°, 1st category difficulty - 650 m, 2nd category difficulty - 550 m, 3rd category difficulty - 650 m, 4th category difficulty - 40 m.
- Pitons were not used.
- Climbing time - 4 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay in a hut (2350 m) in the Temiror valley.
- Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich - CMS
Route Description: 3 гребню с л. СВ. Аддала
Ascent to the top of Tunsada (Dagestan) via a mixed ice-rock route, category 2B, starting from the North-Eastern Adдала glacier and following the Western ridge.
ASCENT DOCUMENT FIRST ASCENT
- The route is ice-rock
- 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (Eastern Caucasus)
- Ascent to peak Tunsada, 4013 m, from the North-Eastern Addala glacier and along the Western ridge
- Proposed difficulty category – 2B
- Route characteristics:
- length – 930 m
- total elevation gain – 400 m
- average slope – 40°
- length of categorized sections:
Route Description: с юга
Ascent route description to the summit of East Shalbuzdag (4060 m), the 2nd tower, via the 2B category of difficulty route with a detailed description of the path and photographs.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock climbing
- Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
- Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
- Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
- Proposed complexity category: 2B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
- category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.
2.9А.43
WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS
- Ascent category: combined
- Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 3B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain: 900 m
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
Report on the first ascent of the southwestern spur of the Western ridge of Dzhailyk peak (4533 m) by the Dzhailyk alpine camp team in 1983.
REPORT
on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich