Report

on the ascent to the summit of Sel'dy Vostochnaya via the center of the south wall (first ascent)

Climbing Passport:

Rock climbing category
Eastern Caucasus, Chehy-chay gorge, area from Kurush pass to Sel'dy peak
Sel'dy Vostochnaya peak via the center of the south wall
Proposed category: 1B. First ascent
Height difference: 200 m
3 rock anchors and 1 chock used on the route
Climbing time: 3 hours
Leader: Egorov Sergey Leonidovich, Ip.

Participants:

Yenatskiy Andrey Nikolaevich
Ip. Leonov Petr Georgievich
MS

Departure to the route: May 26, 2015, 7:00 AM

summit: May 26, 2015, 10:00 AM, descent: May 26, 2015, 12:00 PM

Route Description.

From the base camp near the Kurush settlement — to the bridge, then across the bridge and up the road to Kurush pass along the Sel'dy riverbed, 2 hours. Then up to the saddle between the massifs of Sel'dy and Sel'dy Vostochnaya peaks — 1 hour. Convenient bivouac.

Approaching the middle part of the south wall of Sel'dy Vostochnaya peak, up the scree slope for 150 m, bypassing a rock tooth on the right, R0.

Exit to the saddle between the wall and the rock tooth. From the saddle, left and up through an inside corner for 3 m and then along ledges for 40 m. Climbing category 2, 30–40° (section R2).

Approach the wall and along a ledge to the right for 30 m, category 2, belay! — to a vertical inside corner (section R4).

Through the inside corner, exit to a plateau, 30 m, category 2, 40° (section R5).

Along the plateau to the left for 150 m to the summit tower (section R6).

Exit to the summit, 30 m of simple climbing.

Descent in summer is via the stream bed, beware of rockfall! Alternatively, cross the stream, ascend and traverse a small ridge towards Sel'dy peak and descend along the scree slope.