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Description of the ascent route to Peak 6431 via the NW wall from the Ayu-Jilga glacier, category 6, 2130 m height difference, 2685 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
  3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 6431, via NW wall (from Ayu-Jilga glacier)
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
    • Rocky part of the route — 1850 m
    • Snow-ice part of the route — 280 m
    • Total height difference of the route — 2130 m
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Report on the first ascent of the route through the left part of the north face of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with a description of the path and tactical actions of the team.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

  1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
  2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
  3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
  4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
  5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
  6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
  7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
  8. Team:
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Report on the ascent of the KAiS "Black Ice" team to the summit of **Korzhenevskaya** via the left bastion of the southwestern ridge, category 5B difficulty.

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderMikhail Aleksandrovich Polyakov, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsMikhail Vladimirovich Grishin, 1st sports rank, Sergey Valerievich Nasedkin, 1st sports rank up to 6300 m
1.3Full Name of CoachVasily Yuryevich Gordeev
1.4Organization"Black Ice"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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The first ascent route of 1975 to Peaks 4773 and 5025 via the north edge in the Central Pamir, category of complexity 5B.

4.2.5 Moscow City Ministry — 1975.

Traverse of Peaks 4773 m and 5025 m with ascent to Peak 4773 m via the North Ridge — Cat. 5B (First Ascent)

Central Pamir

Spartak MGS Team. Bashkirov V. L. — team leader, 1st sports category Ginzburg V. I. — CMS Novikov L. I. — 1st sports category Stepanov V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Honored Master of Sports Kavunenko V. D.

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Ascent to Kamchatsky Peak (5050 m) via the Northwest slope, route description, technical information, and climbing history.

n KAMOHCK-YPR.ABCKUH 5050 Aeroplane n 5400 5833 Route 2 Wtyrmaвoú noзерь Route category 5400 Object name 25. 15. Bero-uey 76 600,40',20,-12, 15 B. 5pabepuain T. Kozack A. Cyбopкина, B. Tpuyoreeba

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First ascent of the northern wall of Peak Ravak (5232 m) in the Central Pamir, a route of category III (UIAA) difficulty, climbed by a team from the Leningrad City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society in 1975.

I. Ascent Passport

  1. Category: technically challenging ascents.
  2. Area: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
  3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5232 m (Ravak) via the center of the north face.
  4. Characteristics of the ascent:
    • height difference — 1200 m;
    • average steepness — 60°;
    • length of complex sections (5 and 6 cat. diff.) — 875 m;
  5. Pitons driven:
    • rock — 126;
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First ascent of an unnamed peak (4950 m) in the North spur of the Vanch Range via the North-East ridge, rated 4B.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification — sport. First ascent, approximately 4B category difficulty. 2. Ascent area — Western Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanch Range. 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — Unnamed peak 4950 m (in the western ridge of peak 5307 m) via the north-eastern ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, average steepness — 35°, length of the challenging section: when reaching the ridge — 50 m, when bypassing the large gendarme — 100 m, summit ascent — 100 m, summit tower — 10 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 18, ice — 4.

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Ascent to the summit of Surkhu (5100 m) via the west wall, difficulty category 6A, 1100 m height difference, 43 climbing hours.

Passport

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing region — Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
  3. Peak Surkh (5100 m), via the center of the western wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6A
  5. Height difference — 1100 m. average steepness — 76°, length of sections 1st grade difficulty — 2nd grade difficulty —
    3rd grade difficulty 5 points +10 points 6 4th grade difficulty — 5 pitches (200 m
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First ascent of an unnamed peak (5231 m) via Western Ridge in the Vanch Range, Pamir Mountains; a 5A (Russian grading system) route.

Vanch Range

UNNAMED PEAK 5231 m (previously 5211)! (FIRST ASCENT) VIA WEST RIDGE ROUTE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY

Team Composition

NameSport RankRole
Vavilov A.I.1st sport rank— team leader
Zhelandovskiy L.E.1st sport rank— participant
Mironychev M.S.1st sport rank— " —
Shabrukov V.I.1st sport rank— " —
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Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

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