Ascent Passport

I Climbing class — combined 2 Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Kungay Ala-Too ridge 3 Peak — KSHE-TAU (4013), PHOENIX (3870 m), route — traverse of two peaks, combined. 4 Presumed difficulty category — 2B 5 Route characteristics:

• height difference — 550 m
• average steepness — 35°
• sections of 5th cat. diff. — none

From the base camp at the foot of v. Aosol, ascend along the trail along the stream in the direction of the Western Tsiruk, then - overcoming moraine ridges - exit to the glacier. On the glacier, head towards v. Sadko, bypassing the moraines on the left, but not approaching the slopes of v.v. Aelita and Berendey - rockfalls are possible from there. Approach the base of the ice-rock couloir leading to the saddle to the left of v. Sadko (2 hours 30 minutes). From here, it is visible that the wall of v. Sadko is intersected in its lower part by two new couloirs, going from the main ice-rock couloir from left to right upwards. The couloirs are bounded by rocky, destroyed large ridges, leading to the main ridge of v. Sadko to the right of the summit. 0–I. Ascend up the main couloir (dirty ice with a high content of rubble, in the lower part of the couloir - 5–10 m of thawed, mobile layer of dirty rubble). Rockfalls! Ascent up the couloir under the cover of the 1st ridge, bypass it on the left, ascend to the ridge. Here you should look around. I–2. Along the rocky, destroyed ridge to the main ridge (movement is mostly simultaneous, in some places - alternating with belay through ledges). 2–3. Along the main ridge to the summit of Sadko (total from the foot - 2 hours). Route length - 25 km. Options:

• Ascent via the 2nd ridge - apparently equivalent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, eastern part of Kungey Alatau, Western Cirque of Chon-Uryukty gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of peaks Sadko-Berendei-Aelita-Chernomor-Kazakhstan (4079 m), category 3A.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B, combined.
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 1200 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 200 m. Average steepness —
6. 37 rock anchors were hammered for belaying and 2 chocks were used.
7. Number of climbing hours — 19 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — one night on peak Aelita on a constructed comfortable platform, lying down.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualifications:

Ascent Passport

I Ascent Class — combined II Ascent Region — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau III Peak — Urrkty, height — 3930 m, route via North combined. CP 4 Anticipated Difficulty Category — 3B Route Characteristics:

• elevation gain 500 m
• average steepness 40 degrees

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge
3. Peak — CHERNOMOR, height — 4000 m, route — traverse of 3 peaks with ascent to Chernomor peak via Eastern counterfort, combined.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 450 m
   • average steepness — 30°
   • sections of 5th diff. cat. — 65 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

7.8.3

Climbing Report on Peak Karlytau (5550 m) in July 1968

Almaty Region

1968

INTRODUCTION

From July 18 to August 20, 1968, an expedition from the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society was in the area of the North Inylchek Glacier, with the goal of traversing peaks Shater and Khan-Tengri. To reach the area of operation, it was necessary to cross the Sarydzhas Ridge from the Bayankol valley. The area around Peak Marble Wall is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. In 1965, while conducting the northern traverse of the Sarydzhas Ridge, the Kazakh "Spartak" team scouted the Tengri-Tag Ridge as a potential climbing objective. It was clear that the approach from the Bayankol valley to the North Inylchek Glacier was significantly shorter than the approach via Lake Merzbacher, but the Sarydzhas Ridge presented a difficult obstacle. The saddle between peaks Karly-Tau and Kazakhstan seemed the most accessible. A reconnaissance group of 8 people led by V. Popov was sent to scout and prepare the route across the ridge. The group, departing Almaty on July 18, arrived at the "green" camp under the moraine of the Marble Wall Glacier on July 20. Further, in fulfillment of their task, the group:

• Reached the watershed of the Sarydzhas Ridge via the northwest ridge of Peak Karly-Tau;

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5.
6. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
4. 55 km
5. Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — ice and snow 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan; Terskey Ala-Too ridge 3. Peak named after N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the North face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B. First ascent. 5. Height difference — 830 m. Distance — 1270 m. Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 830 m. Average steepness — 43°. Steepness of the wall section — 51° 6. Pitons driven:

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.