Fig. 40 205. Chanchakhi (4461 m) via the South Ridge (a combined route, M. Zvezdin, category 4A). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier under the pass is described in the routes:

• 83
• 124 From the pass, descend first along simple rocks, then along a snowy slope, and through the bergschrund, exit to the upper snowy plateau of the Tbiliza glacier. Along the glacier, having passed a little to the left and down, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund, exit to the right side of the wide ice-and-snow southwestern slope of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi peak. Along the steep slope, adhering to small right rocky islands, 400-500 m up to the South ice-and-snow ridge (possible rockfall, avalanches - piton belay). Here, turn left and along the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices) approach under the rocky ascent of the summit tower. Along a narrow rocky, above medium difficulty, vertical corner-chimney ("live" stones - piton belay) the ascent is 25-30 m to the wall. Further:
• first along steep 50-60-meter rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along simple rocks of the South Ridge - ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.

Ascent via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) From the tourist base in the Tsey district, reach the upper branch of the Tsey Glacier under the saddle ridge between Mamison and Chanchakhi peaks. Traverse the glacier (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the ridge connecting Mami-son and Chanchakhi peaks, col. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund and ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the rocks of the counterfort descending from the left side. Then, keeping to the right side of the counterfort rocks (possible rockfall), ascend a steep snow-ice slope (ice axe and insurance) to the Tsey-Chanchakhi col (cornice). On the col, traverse 60–80 m to the right, then ascend the broad, steep southeast slope of Chanchakhi peak under numerous outcrops (possible rockfall and avalanches — R factor). Traverse left and up towards the rocks of the Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi. Overcome a glacial crevasse and ascend the steep ice slope (possible rockfall — piton insurance) to the rocks on the right side of the buttress. Further, on simple and moderately difficult broken rocks, with a 25-meter wall of average difficulty above, ascend in the middle part of the Southeast Buttress to the South Ridge. Do not descend; turn right instead. On the steep snow-ice South Ridge (ice axe and insurance), then on moderately difficult rocks and finally on a corner-chimney (loose rocks — piton insurance), overcome a wall. Further, on steep 50-meter rocks of average difficulty and then on simple rocks of the South Ridge, reach the summit of Chanchakhi. From the last bivouac on the plateau to the summit takes R2–R3 hours. Bivouac on the summit is possible. Descent is via the South Ridge. The total duration of the route is 3–4 days.

1.1. GENERAL INFORMATION 1.1.1. Route name: North face of p. Bodhona. 1.1.2. Region: Lateral Zaalaysky ridge, Pamir. 1.1.3. Route type: rock. 1.1.4. Difficulty category: 6B. 1.1.5. Route elevation gain: 1300 m. 1.1.6. Route length: 1950 m. 1.1.7. Average steepness of the route: 55°. 1.1.8. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff.: 780 m. 1.1.9. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 450 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Chančachi, 4450 m, left bastion of the NE wall (first ascent)
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, route length — 1100 m, average steepness — 65°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 700 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for aid rock 102 21 ice 6 -

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chan Chakhi-Khokh (4453 m) via the route: North wall - right "bastion", from August 18 to 26, 1965. By the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" led by NEBORAK V.S. Mt. CHAN CHAKHI-KHOKH 4453 m.

Team Composition

Leader: NEBORAK VALENTIN STEPANOVICH, born in 1930, Ukrainian, member of the CPSU, 1st sports category in mountaineering, architect.

Participants:

GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA YURIY IVANOVICH, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan, 1st sports category in mountaineering, electrical engineer.

Ascent Log

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Chanchakhi (4450 m) via the Left Bastion of the North Face
4. Difficulty category — 5B, combined, second ascent
5. Height difference — 840 m length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 447 m, including 6th category — 30 m, average steepness 65°, with main sections at 85°
6. Pitons driven

   	rock	bolted	chocks	ice

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship

I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh

The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level. From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B. In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B. Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969.

2. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions

The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls. The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

Report

on the first ascent route on the summit Chančahi 4461 m via the center of the North wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy regional FaiS from February 3 to 11, 2014. Team captain: Roško V. I. Team coach: Mitühin F. P.

Sumy — 2014

Addresses:

Coach Mitühin Fedor Petrovich 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67 ph. home +38 (050) 634-34-34 ph. work 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roško Vladimir Ivanovich

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.