PHOTO BY SEMEN WITH CM. ROTSHEHROV AND ROMAN ROMANOV WITH "IO-MO-KO-MANM" ON NIINKA "SVE-NO" 64 p. GUEST

Climbing Report for Peak Baychechekhey via the Right Counterfort of the Western Wall, 5A Category of Difficulty (A. Schwab Route)

Climbing Passport

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. Ak-Say, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
3. Peak Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the right counterfort of the western wall (A. Schwab route)
4. Category of Difficulty: 5A
5. Height Difference: 515 m (wall section) Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 250 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 90 m Average steepness of the wall section: 75°

B. Boxs, 4240 m, via N. Stena, 4A comb., as a duo Fedorov S. January 30, 7:15 — Exit from Khikhina Promin M. 10:00 — control point NAE. 16:20 — Overnight M. Petrov January 31, 8:15 — Exit from bivouac E. Lobanev 13:00 — Reach the ridge 14:40 — Summit 17:00 — descent to Khikhinka 18:00 — descent to Ala-Archa

Report on the first ascent of the route on p. Box via the left part of the north wall. Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the north wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is combined. Height difference of the route: 800 m. Route length: 1100 m
2. Length of sections: I — 400 m, II — 40 m, III — 100 m, IV — 155 m, V — 280 m, VI — 120 m.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75–80°. Total route — 50°.
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 7.

ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

Ко­ро­на (1-я), 4810 м becomes Korona (1-я), 4810 m

Approach to the route from the side of the Учи­тель glacier from Ratzek hut — 3 hours. Move along the central moraine of the Учи­тель glacier in the direction of a clearly visible peak in the western ridge of Ко­рона (1-й), to the right of the Плотни­ков route. Section R0–R1. From the bergschrund move up and left along the несложному ice in the direction of a clearly visible ice couloir. 150 m, 40°, III. Section R1–R2. Up the ice couloir to the beginning of несложного combined climbing. 40 m, 65°, IV. Section R2–R3. Move along the ice and несложным rocks first left and up, then right and up in the direction of the ice rivulet. 70 m, 65°, IV. Section R3–R4. Up the ice rivulet to the snow field in front of the rock step. 50 m, 70°, IV+. Section R4–R5. Traverse right along the snow-ice field to the rock step. 50 m, 40°, III. Section R5–R6.

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent: winter
2. Region of ascent: Tian-Shan.
3. Peak Korona (4855 m) from the North
4. Category of difficulty: 5B (approximate) first ascent
5. Route characteristics: route length — 1395 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness of the route (bergshrund — plateau) — 64°
6. Number of pitons: rock, bolt, nut, and ice protection elements — 60

Ko­ro­na (I-st) 4810 m

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;