Ascent Passport

1: Ascent category — high-altitude 2: Ascent region — North-West Pamir, Moskvina 3: Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — east-east face of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m 4: Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1900 m, average steepness (before reaching the ridge) — 50°, length of difficult sections — 423 m 5. Number of pitons used: rock — 51 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolted 6. Total climbing hours — 34 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — five; three semi-reclining, two reclining. 8. Team name — Armed Forces of the USSR.

Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the northern part of the western wall by the combined team of CS FC and S. Team captain I.G. Khatskevich, team coach V.P. Popov 1974 Peak Korzhenevskaya from the west. The left (northern) part of the western wall. The region of Central Pamir with its highest peaks in the USSR - Peaks "Kommunizma" and "Korzhenevskaya" - constantly attracts the attention of both domestic and foreign mountaineers. The climbers of the Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports set a goal to climb

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the center of the West wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1605 m
   • height difference of the wall section — 1200 m
   • length of sections:
     • 5th category — 715 m

Report

The team of the Central Council of DSO "Mehnat" on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the central counterfort of the western wall in the program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1980 Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in the North-Western Pamir in the northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range. It was discovered in 1906 by N. L. Korzhenevsky. The summit was first conquered in 1953. By the present time, many interesting routes have been laid to the summit, including the western wall. The wall was first climbed in 1975 by our team, but as further study of the wall showed, the route taken was objectively dangerous in its lower part, which was dramatically confirmed on July 28 when a massive rockfall occurred down the central couloir. This year, three teams declared their intention to climb the western wall. We chose the safest option - to ascend via the central, indistinctly expressed counterfort. Additional research was conducted on the route, a scheme was drawn up, and the pattern of rockfalls was studied, with overnight stops planned. The team believes that such wall routes should be climbed by small groups, so it was decided to proceed with six climbers. To replenish the team with young participants, additional entries were made. The team consisted of:

• Putinchev A.V. - MS, team captain
• Voronin V.T. - MS

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing region: Central Pamir. 3. Climbing route: peak (Krasnoarmeysky — conditional name), peak 4770 m via South-West buttress. 3.4 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 800 m, average steepness 40°, length of difficult section 80 m + 100 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons 2, ice pitons 9, no drill pitons. 6. Number of walking hours: 8–9 hours.

Report

On the ascent of the North Face of Pik OGPU (First Ascent) 5B

Kiev — 1966

Introduction

The object of the ascent, Pik OGPU, is located in the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier in the central Pamirs. This area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is quite well studied both geographically and sportingly. However, until this season, no attempts had been made to ascend Pik OGPU. Our team became interested in Pik OGPU as an object of ascent back in 1964. Then, after a successful ascent of Pik Engels, our team leader V. M. Abalakov first told us about the north face of Pik OGPU, and also provided initial information about the face itself, the rocks, and the nature of ascents in this area. Over the past period, we managed to gather extensive material that gave a fairly complete picture of organizing an expedition to the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier, as well as the peaks, the nature of ascents, relief conditions, weather, etc. As a result of this preparatory work, the Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society announced Pik OGPU for the USSR championship in the 1966 season.

Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak OGPU via the right central wall (first ascent). Nalchik, 1968

Brief information about the object and the ascent area

Peak OGPU is located in the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier (see diagram). The area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. However, the only ascent to Peak OGPU was made in 1966 by a team from the Central Council of Spartak led by A. Kustovsky via the North wall with an exit to the northeast counterfort (see photo No. 1). Peak OGPU, despite its relatively low height (6055 m), impresses everyone with its:

• beauty;
• grandeur;
• steep walls that rise to the summit from almost all sides. The easiest route to the summit is the descent route taken by Kustovsky's group (4B–5B category of difficulty):

USSR Championship in High-Technical Ascent Class

Peak OGPU (6055 m)
Center of the northwest wall
Team of the Committee for Physical Education and Sports, Leningrad
Leningrad
1973

Brief Information on the Geography of the Region and Sporting Characteristics of Ascents to Peak OGPU

In the center of the northwest region of the Pamir, between the Fedchenko and Bivachny glaciers, there is a northwest spur of the Marx-Engels ridge, stretching from southwest to northeast, where Peak OGPU is located, discovered and mapped back in the 30s. The height of Peak OGPU is 6055 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70