Passport

I. Category of First Ascent. 2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area. 3. "Pamyati voskhoditeley na Everest" (B-3) traverse with ascent via the NE ridge snow-ice saddle. 4. Proposed category 4A, first ascent. 5. Height of the eastern summit 3710 m, western 3720 m. Elevation difference 920 m, length 1760 m. 6. Pitons: 22 ice screws for belay. 7. Climbing hours 13. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Leader Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS.

ASCENT PASS TO THE SUMMIT "Pik Petra I" July 10, 2001

1. Ascent type — ice and snow.
2. Ascent area — Altai, South-Chuya Ridge.
3. Summit — Pik Petra I, height — 3422.0 m, route is combined — snow, ice, rocks.
4. Expected category — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length — 900 m, average steepness — 45° without a ridge.
6. Number of ice screws driven — 12, rock screws — 2.
7. Number of hours on the move — 7 hours.

Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol gorge (Sofiysky glacier area), 1.3
2. Sister (Middle) – Sister (3) 3721 m traverse.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — mixed.
5. Height difference 225 m. Distance 800 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 29°, total route 22°.
6. Ice screws used — 6.
7. Total climbing time — 5 hours (from the bergschrund).
8. Leader Drakkin Andrey Valentinovich CMS, 1st sports category, № 68.
9. Participants: Abornev S. — 3rd sports category

ASCENT CERTIFICATE for the summit “Peak 100th Anniversary of RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING SOCIETY” (July 6, 2001)

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Altai, South Chuya Range — Beltirdu ridge.
3. Summit — Peak 100th Anniversary of Russian Mountaineering Society. Elevation — 3655.6 m, combined route — snow, ice, rocks.
4. Anticipated category of difficulty – 2B.
5. Route description: elevation gain – 550 m, route length – 900 m. Average slope – 35°.
6. Ice screws used – 10, rock pitons – 4.

The route to the summit of Pik V. Shumilova via the left part of the North slope, snow-ice, coordinates: 49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator, approximately for c/tr. The route, view from the northeastThe route, view from the glacier View from the glacier

Passport

1. Altai, Yuzhno-Chuysky Ridge, section KMGV 1.3
2. p. Deva Mariya, 3650 m, snow-ice climb from the N.
3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 1435 m (by altimeter). Route length: 2400 m. Length of sections: cat. 5 — 0 m, cat. 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route 45°, entire route 34°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0.

Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge — Vodolazko S.I. "Badzhal Range"

II A C II O P T I. Combined route. 2. Badzhal Range, Ulun gorge. 3. v. Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge. 4. Proposed — 1B cat. diff. first ascent. 5. Height difference: 350 m, length — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 6. Pitons left on the route — none. Used previously driven pitons and not knocked out — none. 7. Travel hours — 5 hours. 8. Overnights: in the base camp at the confluence of the tributaries of the Ulun River.

Via Western spur, Cat. II

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Uluun River. Begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the right of the Western spur, sticking to the rocks. After 30 minutes, exit left onto the spur, which consists of snowy, non-technical rocks. After 80 m, the ridge becomes steeper. Approach an 8-meter wall, in front of which, lower on the ridge, a control cairn is built. The wall is climbed by alternating movement up to the left. Continue along the not-so-steep ridge for 65 m. A small 5-meter wall is encountered. The ridge turns left and abuts a 7-meter wall, to the right of which there are internal corners and large walls. Move up one of the internal corners with alternating belays. Continue with simultaneous movement along the ridge, which drops off to the right with large walls up to 60 m deep. Moving along the ridge, reach the walls of a "gendarme," which is climbed from right to left via small walls and an internal corner (first crux). Climbing is quite challenging for winter conditions; hook belays with rope protection are required. To the right, 80-meter walls with a frozen waterfall between them are visible. After passing the crux, move 55 m with simultaneous belays along the ridge. The ridge is snowy; then exit onto inclined snowy slabs. Hook belays with rope protection are necessary (second crux). After 30 m, enter a wide snowy chimney; after 50 m of movement through it, exit back onto the ridge. Small "gendarme" features on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. After 80 m, approach an 8-meter internal corner and a 15-meter wall above it. After passing them, exit back onto a gentle ridge leading to the summit. Descend from the summit via the Category I route. Total ascent time is 5-6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
3. Bolshoy Zub peak, 2048 m above sea level, combined route on the Western counterfort of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 600 m, average slope of ascent — 45 degrees.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stays are not provided — the route is completed in one day.
9. Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich — instructor, CMS.

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven: