по пол­кам или кру­тым глад­ким пли­там does not need translation as the original text is in Russian. Here is the translation: along shelves or steep smooth plates. Careful belaying with pitons. Then through (a sleeping window) we exit onto a 5-meter rocky ridge, which we traversed with a rope. Further on, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty. There are two 7–8 meter walls, which are taken head-on — 3 rock pitons. Through simple rocks, we exit onto the summit. Control point. We found a note from a group of climbers from the Kyrgyz State University, who made an ascent to Peak I May in 1957 via the Southwest Ridge, route category 1B. The ascent from the col to the summit took 7 hours.

Lo­ca­tion. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is lo­ca­t­ed on the ridge of the Ja­la­my­sh­sky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the So­ku­luk­sky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Pan­filov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counter­fors runs, which flows along the Yu. Ady­gene gla­cier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counter­fors is co­ver­ed with a han­ging gla­cier, which forms a small gla­cier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of cry­stal­line chlo­rite schists. Ex­ter­nally, the summit re­semb­les a re­gular three-faced py­ra­mid and is well vis­i­ble from the entire Ady­ge­ne area.

As­cent via the North Ridge

The rou­te, like the pre­vi­ous one, starts from the "Elektro" camp­si­te and coin­ci­des with it in the ini­tial part. Af­ter the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left mo­re­ne of the Yu. Ady­ge­ne gla­cier. You need to con­tin­ue mo­ving along the same hol­low in the south­ern di­rec­tion, where the beau­ti­ful py­ra­mid — the goal of the as­cent — is al­most al­ways vis­i­ble. The hol­low leads to the val­ley be­tween the Pan­filov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two cham­bers here:

• the north­ern one
• the south­ern one, ad­ja­cent di­rectly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM From this val­ley, the bot­tom of which is paved with mo­ren­ic ridges, it is nec­es­sary to as­cend to the ridge con­nect­ing the two men­tioned sum­mits. There are two vari­ants of the path to this ridge:
• The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the south­ern cham­ber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley
2. Peak — Trezubets 4500 m, right couloir, N side, 5A cat.
3. Proposed — 5A cat., first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route description: elevation gain — 560 m, route length — 820 m, length of 5th cat. sections — 470 m, average slope — 55°, main part 65°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total IT used — 0
7. Total climbing time — 14:30, days — 1

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Peak — Trident 4500 m, right couloir, N face, 5A
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 560 m. route length — 820 m. length of 5th category sections — 470 m. average steepness — 55°, main part — 65°
6. Left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total usage of

Route Description

to peak 3900 m (site "Uglovoy") via NW ridge, cat. III Having left the bivouac located near the Hydrometeorological Station on Golubina Glacier, cross the glacier and approach the route. Section O–I — an inclined, free rock shelf with a slope of 35° is traversed simultaneously with belay on protrusions. A control cairn is located on a small ledge. From the control cairn, go straight up the wall with a slope of 65° — a passage of medium difficulty, 40 m. Convenient belay points. 8–9 pitons per rope. Section 2–3 — an exit to a gendarme — 60 m: the slope increases to 75°, belay points are convenient, rocks are heavily destroyed, also 8–9 pitons per rope. 4 hours from the start of the route. Bypassing the gendarme (section 3–4) along the main shelf with a slope of 40° simultaneously with belay through protrusions. Further, 120 m along a steep wall of medium difficulty with a slope of 85° (in some places up to 90°). Piton belay — up to 10 pitons per rope. From here, moving simultaneously in traverse to the left along destroyed rocks, exit to the summit. 4 hours from the gendarme. Descent along the ridge to the last gendarme (simultaneous movement). From the last gendarme, rappel 60 m to the western side with an exit to the main shelf. Further, to the ice-snow plateau and down the couloir of route 2A to peak 4 IO 7, descend to Golubina Glacier. Recommendations:

• Most of the route is traversed on friction, so it is not recommended to move along the route in bad weather. Note: I. In general, according to the length of sections of category IV, the route deserves category 4A difficulty, however, its relatively small overall length allows recommending it to be classified as 3B.

2. The large number of pitons indicated in the report is explained by the low qualification of the participants (III sports category) and the fact that this ascent was a first ascent.

Ascent Passport

on p. 4265 m.

1. First ascent — I. Kalas
2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
3. Summit p. 4265 m along the 63 ridge from l. Golubina, ridge route type
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, length of 2 category of difficulty sections — 450 m, average steepness — 42°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 (0); ice — 0
7. Number of walking hours — 6 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — none

Ascent Passport

Peak 4265 m. First Ascent

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak 4265 m according to 3rd classification category, route characteristic — ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B 5. Route characteristic: height difference — 750 m, section length — 600 m 2nd difficulty category, average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 9

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16

Route description to the summit of Peak Dementieva (4500 m), approximately 4A cat. diff. 7.5.713

Peak Dementieva (4500 m) is located in the northern spur of the Western Kokschaal-Too ridge (see map), which forms the right (orographic) bank of the Chong-Turasu river gorge.

Approaches

Leaving the base camp (see map) along the trail leading to the upper reaches of the Chong-Turasu river, we turn left at the third (along the way) stream flowing from the spur and flowing into the Chong-Turasu. Further ascent is along the talus (along the right orographic bank of the stream) under the rocky massif of the peak. The cemented talus resembles firm firn, requiring steps to be cut with the sole of the boot. At the beginning of the ridge on the talus, there is a possible spot for a tent, no water, but there is snow. The approach from the base camp to the stream takes 1 h, the ascent along the talus — 3–3.5 h.

Ascent

Bypassing the rocky walls on the right along the way, along the talus we reach the ridge (1 h), further the path goes along the ridge of medium difficulty, with protection through ledges, the rocks are quite heavily destroyed (2 h). The ridge turns into a sharp crest, which is overcome in a classical way, the length is 5–7 m. The crest leads to a wall (3–4 m) sheer with minimal holds, overhanging above the precipice. Protection is with pitons. After the wall, a ridge of medium difficulty (protection through ledges) leads to a 40-meter wall, dissected by a small crack. In front of the wall, there is a flat area where a tent can be pitched. Passing the wall — with piton protection without backpacks:

Fig. 8.