Ascent Passport

Peak 4265 m. First Ascent

I. Ascent class — rock

2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Golubina lake area

3. Peak 4265 m according to 3rd classification category, route characteristic — ridge

4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B

5. Route characteristic: height difference — 750 m, section length — 600 m 2nd difficulty category, average steepness — 35°

6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 (0), ice — 0

7. Number of walking hours — 9

8. Number of overnight stays — none

9. Leader — Burenin D.A. CMS

Participants:

• Sidorenko A.V. 2nd sports category
• Gerasimov K.Yu. 2nd sports category
• Karabayev M.A. 3rd sports category
• Pilipenko T.A. III sports category
• Palaginova T.E. III sports category

Team coach — Belousov E.B. CMS II.

Date of departure and return — August 13, 1987

Organization — AUSB "Ala-Archa"

From the overnight stay at the IMC station, move up along the orographically right side of the Golubina glacier to a large couloir leading to the western counterfort (30–40 minutes).

The couloir has a characteristic "pants" shape. Up the right "leg" through the snow to the main ledge (section 0–I).

Upon reaching the ledge — alternate belay.

Section I–2:

• Move along the main ledge to the end, bypassing rocks on the right
• Reach the ridge — I control point

Section R2–R8: movement along the ridge with alternate belay — 60 m, rocks of medium difficulty. Further descent to the left and down (section R4–R5) — descent from a small gendarme — 15 m.

Section R5–R6: up and to the right along the slabs — 50 m, reach the main ridge of the counterfort. The wall is bypassed on the right and further up along the slabs — 200 m with piton belay (section R6–R7).

Section R7–R8: 90 m up the rocks of medium difficulty, bypassing walls on the right — enter the pre-summit ridge.

Section 8–9: along the ridge 70 m to the south and 20 m from the apex of the main ridge — reach the summit.

Descent via route 2A:

• along the ridge to NW, 300 m to a clearly visible "finger"
• from it, exit to the left into a snowy couloir leading to Golubina glacier.