Ascent Passport
on p. 4265 m.
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First ascent — I. Kalas
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Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
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Summit p. 4265 m along the 63 ridge from l. Golubina, ridge route type
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Proposed category of difficulty — 2A
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Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, length of 2 category of difficulty sections — 450 m, average steepness — 42°
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Pitons hammered: rock — 5 (0); ice — 0
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Number of walking hours — 6 hours
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Number of overnight stays — none
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Ascent leader — Romina E. B. CMS
Participants:
- Novikov S. N. 2nd category
- Paidulin A. S. 3rd category
- Mikhailov K. N. 3rd category
- Ni V. L. 3rd category
- Fominikh T. F. 3rd category
- Date of departure and return — August 12, 1987. II. Team coach Belousov E. B. CMS 12. Organization — AUSV "Ala-Archa"
From the camps near the GMS station, along the right-bank moraine and Golubina glacier, approach the large main slope, going left from the summit (40 min). Climb the main slope with a steepness of 30° for 250 m under the rock bastion. Then traverse left with a slight gain in height for 250–300 m to a snowy couloir. Climb the couloir for 250 m in the direction of the "finger", located 20–30 m from the ridge saddle. On the saddle, there's a control cairn. Along the ridge to the right on disintegrated rocks of 2 category of difficulty for 350–400 m — exit to the summit. Belay through outcroppings. The ridge is heavily cut.
Descent — via the ascent route.
Approximate time schedule:
- Reach the saddle — 3 hours
- Reach the summit — 2 hours
- Descend to l. Golubina — 2 hours