gorge

1. v. Chernaya 1915 m, via the cornices of the Northern wall, 2004 (first ascent) difficulty category
2. Team leader: Devi M.M.
3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river
4. Section in the classification

22nd Open Championship

of Russia in Alpinism

2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

on the ascent to the summit Zvezdny, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B, cat. diff. Second passage by the team Moscow–St. Petersburg On July 7, 2021

I. Ascent Report

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Zvezdny via the right part of the northeast wall 6A category of difficulty by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 14, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.

Siberian Federal District Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class 2022

Report

on the ascent to the Zvezdny peak, 2265 m via the right part of the South wall angles, 4B–5A cat. diff., first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk team from August 12, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Galtvagar-po-otene-Idintaou. Traverse of Nintau Tapgars, ascent via W. wall of Nintau
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference 1500 m.
• length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 435 m.
• average steepness — 53°.

6. Pitons used:

• for creating artificial belays (i.t.o.) — 3 rock pitons

Ascent to Karaulchitaus via the Northwest Ridge, category 4B (Fig. 33). From the Talgar alpine camp to the initial bivouac at Zelyonaya Polyana — 2–3 hours walking. Approach:

• From Zelyonaya Polyana, approach the western ridge and enter the left couloir.
• Ascend along the ridge for 25–30 meters.
• Then begin ascending left along the ridge for 40–50 meters. The rocks are average. Insurance is via pitons and ledges. Further, the ridge stretches for 150–200 meters. The rocks are of average difficulty. Five not very pronounced gendarmes are overcome head-on with piton insurance. After the fifth gendarme, exit onto slabs with an angle of up to 35°. Further, with piton insurance, at the base of a sheer gendarme. Here, the 1st cairn is built. Bypassing the gendarme is impossible. From the control cairn, move right along the slabs for 20–30 meters, crossing a steep groove in the upper part, and exit onto a platform to a sheer black rock. Immediately from the platform, climb 4 meters up, then right onto a platform under a rocky cornice. From the platform, exit onto a sheer smooth wall without holds. Here, apply a human ladder. Then, along a ledge, reach an internal corner closed by an upper slab. Exit from the corner via a negative section. Insurance is via pitons. Behind the internal corner, exit onto a ridge of easy rocks for 70–80 meters. Here, on the ridge, is an overnight stay. The travel time from the initial bivouac is 8–9 hours.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the summit of Baychechekey 4515 m. Via the center of the West Wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge. Section number according to the classification table 7.4.
2. Baychechekey summit 4515 m (summit coordinates: 42°31′45.76″ N 74°33′23.32″ E), via the center of the West Wall.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 535 m (3980–4515).

I. Technical class. 2. Kyrgyz Alatau ridge (Tian Shan). 3. Peak 5th tower of the Crown, via the southwest wall, combined. 4. 5B category of difficulty (Imisarchev's classification) 5. Height difference 760 m. Length of sections with V–VI category of difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness: wall section of the route — 85° (4300–4600 m), route overall — 74° (4100–4800 m) 6. Pitons hammered: rock 60/17 bolts 3/3

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130