Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024

I. Climbing Report Details

№	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Murashova Olga Dmitrievna, 3rd sports rank
1.2	Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks	Pruyak Roman Valerievich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Coach's Full Name	-
1.4	Organization	RSFO "FAM" Moscow

The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" (3600 m) via the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass from the south along the eastern ridge, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Dombay, July 1969, "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp

Photo # 1

Panorama of peaks from the Belalai glacier. From right to left: Kap peak; "German Komsomol" peak; "Austrian Komsomol" peak. (September)

Photo # 2

View from the Belalai glacier to the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass (September).

Diagram # 1

of the area of "Austrian Komsomol" peak "M" is the saddle between the "Austrian Komsomol" peak and its southeastern summit - Festivalny peak.

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

Severodonetsk Sports Club "Khimik"

UkrSSR Alpine Championship

Report

On the first ascent of the Aksaut traverse with ascent via the East ridge to the Second Northern Aksaut and further traverse to the Eastern Aksaut (approximately route 5B cat. diff.) July 14 – July 20, 1972  The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the USSR formation Severodonetsk – 1972 

List of assault group participants

REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category

1. Climbing category	— rock climbing
2. Climbing area	— Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak, climbing route	— M. Belalakaya from Belalakayskiy pass
4. Estimated category of difficulty	— 3B
5. Route characteristics:	— combined
Elevation gain	— 750 m
Average steepness of the route	— 35°
Length of grade 3 sections	— 240 m
Length of grade 4 sections	— 55 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.

Group composition:

1. Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
2. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich DOMBAY 1982

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35°
6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

The summit of ZINDON is located in the Pravy Zindon gorge and closes the northwestern part of the ridge-pirka. The route is combined, rock-ice, along the southern ridge from the saddle between the peaks ENERGIYA and ZINDON. Descent to the saddle along the ridge leading to the peak SO AN. The exit is from the "Green glade below the CHIMTARGA pass". The ascent to the saddle between ENERGIYA and ZINDON is along a snowy slope of 35–40°. In the absence of crampons, the ascent is possible along the scree on the left. 1st checkpoint — the saddle. Along the ridge to the first gendarme. The ridge is initially snowy, with destroyed gendarmes. Bypassing a snowy mulda — to the first gendarme. The rocks are frozen, destroyed limestones. A series of gendarmes is overcome, on the summit of one of them:

• 2nd checkpoint — gendarme. The edge of the last gendarme ends with a sheer rock wall (30–40 m) at the front. To the right — an inclined plate (60°), covered with flow ice. At the bottom, the plate rests against a narrow rocky ridge. Descent along the inclined wall via "dolphin" (30 m), subsequent movement with a deviation to the right along steep snow onto the ridge. Movement along the sharp rocky ridge to the second gendarme.