Activity Feed
Route Description: с запада
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Jotse Middle (8414 m) along the Eastern Ridge in the Himalayas, category of complexity 6B, a combined route of 10550 m.
Ascent Passport
- Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range, section 10.1.
- Lhotse Middle Peak, 8414 m via the East Ridge
- Assumed 6B cat. diff., first ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 3100 m. Route length: 10550 m. Length of sections with 5–6B cat. diff.: 210 m. Average slope:
- Main part of the route — 29°
Route Description: СВ склону
First ascent of Manaslu Peak (8163 m) North-East slope by the Kazakhstan team of the ЦСКА of 6A category of complexity.
- Central Himalayas, Manaslu-Himal region, Gorkha, Buri-Gandaki river gorge.
- Manaslu peak (8163 m), North-East slope
- Submitted — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
- Route character — combined
- Height difference of the route — 2963 m Route length — 4754 m. Length of sections:
- V category of complexity — 55 m
- VI category of complexity — 4 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route (sections) — 68°
- entire route — 42°
Route Description: С склону и Ю ребру
First ascent via the Southeast Edge of R2 peak (6251 m) in the Himalayas, rated 6A, a combined route.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area — Himalayas, Manaslu area, Lidannda gorge.
- Peak P-2, height 6251 m, via SE ridge
- Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent
- Route character: combined.
- Route elevation gain: 1254 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1485 m. Length of sections: V cat. dif. — 385 m, VI cat. dif. — 350 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 76°, total route — 70°.
- "Hooks" left on the route:
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
First ascent of R-2 peak (6251 m) in the Himalayas via the SE ridge, 6A grade, combined route.
Ascent Passport
Climbing area — Himalayas, Manaslu area, Liddanda gorge. 2. Peak R-2, height (6251 m), via SE ridge 3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 4. Route character: combined. 5. Height difference of the route: 1254 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1485 m. Length of sections:
- V category of difficulty — 385 m,
- VI category of difficulty — 350 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route — 76°,
Route Description: центр. кф. ЮЗ стены
Report on the ascent to Tamserku Peak (6,623 m) via the central counterfort of the SW wall following the first-ascent route of 6A/6B category of difficulty.
Russian Championship
Altitude Class
Report
on the ascent to Mt. Tamserku (6623 m) Route on the central counterfort of the SW wall. 6A/6B category of difficulty, first ascent St. Petersburg 2014
Ascent Passport
- Region: Himalayas, Sagarmatha, Himal, Khumbu.
Route Description: З стене с выходом на СВ гребень
Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Tulagi Chuli (7059 m) in Nepal, category of complexity 6A, route "Happy birthday".
Russian Championship 2015.
High-altitude category.
Report
on the ascent to Thulagi Chuli (7059 m) Route via the western wall with exit to the northeast ridge "Happy birthday" Presumably 6A category of complexity, first ascent
St. Petersburg 2015
Ascent details.
- Region — Himalayas, Mansari Himal, Gandaki zone, Nepal. Coordinates: 26° 31.4′ N, 84° 31.1′ E.
Route Description: правому «бастиону» С стены
Description of the first ascent via the right bastion of the north face of Cholatse (Himalayas, Nepal) rated 6B in terms of climbing difficulty.
Ascent Log
- Nepal, Himalayas, Khumbu region, section No. 10.1 of the mountain peak route classifier
- Peak name: Cholatse (Cholatse), route name: via the right bastion of the north face
- Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference: 1640 m (by altimeter) Route length: 2030 m. Section lengths:
- V category of difficulty — 1175 m
- VI category of difficulty — 445 m Average steepness:
Route Description: ЮВ кф
Report on the first ascent of Rovaling Kang Shar 6645 m in the Nepalese Himalayas via a 6A grade route.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023.
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader, date of birth | Koshilenko Yuri Vladimirovich, Honored Master of Sports in Alpinism, September 23, 1963 |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants, date of birth | Lonchinsky Alexey Sergeevich, Master of Sports in Alpinism, October 1, 1982 |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent made by the team of the Faculty of Alpinism and Sports (ФAiC) of Kiev to the summit of A-min Brakk (5850 m) via the West face, route "Czech Express", Karakoram, Pakistan, 2010.
Open XIX EAAC Alpine Championship
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report on the ascent of the national team of FAiS, Kiev (Ukraine) to the summit of Amin Brakk (5850 m) via the Western wall. "Czech Express" route. Category 6B. Karakoram. Pakistan. July 2010.
CIS Championship in the high-altitude technical class.
Team coach: Lavrenko A.V.
Team leader: Kopteva M.V.
Ascent Passport
- Karakoram, Nangma Region
- Amin Brakk peak via the Northwest wall.
Route Description: с пер. Джолджилга
Route 2B category of complexity to the summit Chelyabinskiy rabochiy via North-eastern ridge, 1000 m long, ascent time 3.5-4 hours.
- Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge.
The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30).
Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours.
The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak.
Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge.
Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.