Description of the Approach to the Route

From the bivouac located in the pocket of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier, ascend via soft and medium talus to the moraine of the NII glacier (30 min). Then, along the moraine of the NII glacier, approach the western slope of v. Bivachnaya, bypassing it on the right (30 min). The start of the route is in a wide couloir on the western slope of v. Bivachnaya.

Brief Explanation of the Table

Section R0–R1: Ascend via a wide snowy couloir located to the left of the summit to the rocky outcrops. Movement is simultaneous, with a slope steepness of 30°. Section R1–R2: Ascend via rocky outcrops, occasionally stepping onto snow, to the saddle. Belay with pitons (2 pitons). Rocks are of medium difficulty; steepness is 40°. Section R2–R3: From the saddle, move upwards to the right along the talus ridge to the summit (40 m). Movement is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route.

49. Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.

66. Avitsenna from the Southeast, Category 1B route, Fig. 36

From the bivouac on the upper moraine of the Avitsenna Glacier, ascend to the upper plateau of the cirque across firn fields. Several snowfields rise towards the summit on the right, transitioning into couloirs and talus slopes in their upper parts. Ascend via the second snowfield, and in its upper part, transition to easy rocks interspersed with large talus sections. Maintain a general ascent direction towards a snowy shoulder to the left of the summit. Fig. 36. From the shoulder, move rightward along the easy rocks of the ridge to a wide chimney with large jammed stones. Ascend to the summit via the left wall of the chimney and easy rocks. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

54

Description of the Traverse

V. Igizak (2A cat. dif.) V. Igizak is located in the southern spur of the Gissarsky Ridge and is the 20th peak to the west of the M. Igizak pass (the first from the pass is v. M. Igizak). From the overnight stay on the green meadow located under v. Bivachnaya, it is necessary to move up along the right bank of the Igizak river in the direction of the M. Igizak pass. The path goes along grassy slopes and scree, and after an hour's walk, you can approach the snowfields under the M. Igizak pass. To the right, a snow corrie diverges, along which you should ascend into the cirque of the Dvukhzubki and Igizak peaks. This ascent takes about an hour. From the east, the peak drops off with sheer rock walls of 500–600 m. By bypassing v. Igizak (leaving it to the left), you should exit onto its southwest ridge. The ascent to the summit from the ridge is combined (rock and snow), technically simple, and takes 30–40 min. The height of the peak above sea level is about 4200 m. The descent from the summit can be made along the Southeast ridge, starting from the southwest subsidiary summit, from where you should first descend for 15–30 min. along a narrow couloir with further exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, the path goes with alternate belay with a predominant exit to the right along the way. There are several short rock walls that can be passed with alternate belay. The further path passes along the ledges, to the right along the way with uncomplicated rocks, and leads to the Nayzakhba pass, from where we descend to the overnight stay. The entire traverse of v. Igizak from the overnight stay on the green meadow and back takes 6–7 hours.

Horseshoe of Sangalt Glacier

Ascent in this area is done from overnight camps: either on the left lateral moraine of Sangalt Glacier or from below Snezhny Pass. Pяти Pass connects Sangalt Glacier with Snezhny Pass. The approach along Sangalg valley to the camps takes 4–5 hours. Fig. 31.

Kruglaya

58. Kruglaya from the northwest, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 31 (Martynov V. with a group — 1953) From the bivouac on the moraine below Snezhny Pass, exit into the cirque towards the pass. The ascent to the summit is to the left, onto the ridge via a steep narrow couloir filled with snow; in its upper part, the couloir becomes the steepest. The summit is accessed via a steep, broken ridge. Many loose rocks. Traverse a short slope with large scree to reach a small snowfield. Follow the snow, bypassing individual rock outcrops, to approach the low rocks of the summit. The descent from the summit is to the east, on the right side of a narrow couloir. Rockfall hazard! Lower down, on the right side of the couloir, a terrace begins, follow it to its end. Descend 25 m down a steep chute to reach an inclined slab. Traverse the slab for 20 m to the next terrace, which leads to a steep chute. Cross the upper part of the chute, crest a low ridge, and follow black, easy rocks to reach Pяти Pass. From the pass, descend via snow to the bivouac. The ascent takes 5–6 hours.

32. Kulai Jawonon from the Bolshoi Igizak Pass, category 16, fig. 16.

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, follow the Igizak River along grassy slopes and scree, and higher up, snow, to ascend to the Bolshoi Igizak Pass. From the pass, head left towards the summit along the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, and the movement is simultaneous. After 200 m:

• Bypass a minor summit on the right, from which the ridge turns southeast.
• Follow the snowy ridge to the first summit.
• The steep ascent up the snowfield is done with alternating belays. On the way to the Main summit from the first, two gaps in the ridge are encountered. It's better to ascend via the snow to the left of the ridge. The exit to the summit is on snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge to a gap, and then onto the Kulai Jawonon glacier plateau and down the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. Fig. 16.

descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Rog valley — 5.3.3.
2. Peak MSU, 5430 m, via E edge of N wall and NE ridge (via shoulder 4831)
3. Category 4B, first ascent
4. Route type — snow and ice
5. Route height difference 1250 m (by GPS) Route length 2350 m. Length of sections 5 — 10 m, 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 52°, entire route — 37°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total 2; including bolted 0. Used on the route: rock pitons 3, chocks 2, ice screws 68. Used pitons: bolted stationary 0, including ITO 0, bolted removable 0, including ITO 0.
7. Team's travel hours: 44 h, 5 days.

From the Polish bivouacs on the ridge, the route goes along the main edge of the Kara-Bel spur across the plateau. Crossing the lateral ridges leading to the Snezhny and Balkon peaks, we reach a saddle on the main ridge (the saddle - good weather). From the saddle, on the right side of the main edge, we ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the summit (on the last 200 m the steepness is up to 50°). From the Polish bivouacs - 3 hours. Descent follows the ascent route.

From the Purowekoro glacier, category 2B (Poland) July 18, 1969 Todeush Piotrovsky Knishtov Tsolevsky From the Purowekoro glacier, an unfinished-downward couloir with a steepness of up to 45° leads to the saddle between the peaks Yar-Tash and Sopka Lestnitsa. Loose 50-degree slope and rocks on the left part of the couloir. From the saddle, a rocky ridge directly through several small vertical ascents about 300 m leads to a large gendarme. Bypass it via a steep rock slab (up to 50°). Then exit to the ridge. From here, on a snowy ridge with rock outcrops (100 m), there is an exit to the summit. Descent to the saddle between the peaks and the pinnacle on snow, and further safe descent to the glacier on snow.