Fig. 26 103. Uilpata (4648 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 26). From the bivouac on the plateau (closed crevasses), bypass the Bivouachnaya peak from the left (north) and approach the Uilpatinsky Pass, located between Uilpata on the left and the CDS peak on the right.

• Traverse the plateau and cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection required)
• Ascend a steep, 250–300-meter snow slope to the Uilpatinsky Pass Time from the initial bivouac: 2–3 hours. The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut or on the scree - Uilpatinsky overnight stays - is described in route 83. From the Uilpatinsky overnight stays, traverse the snow plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, bypassing the southeastern slopes of Uilpata. Approach the right side of the broad saddle of the Uilpatinsky Pass, connecting Uilpata on the right with the CDS peak on the left. Turn right and ascend a gentle snow slope to the right side of the long, narrow rocky ridges descending from the right side of the Uilpatinsky Pass between the ice falls of hanging glaciers. Glaciers:

163. Ular­g — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ular­g via the East ridge is described in route 143. From the summit of Ular­g, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets. From the saddle:

• along the ice-snow ridge,
• then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets. From Pik Komsomolets:
• along simple rocks,
• then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle. Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

The path from the bivouac site in the Tsey district to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass. In 1934 on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier. At the saddle of the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, turn left. Over the destroyed, unreliable rocks of medium difficulty of the jagged ridge, bypassing the difficulties of the gendarmes on the right, along the snow-covered slabs (piton belay) to a platform under the sheer wall of the Western ridge of the Chanchakhi peak. From the platform:

• traverse along simple and medium-difficulty rocks to bypass the wall on the right to a snow-covered rock couloir;
• along rocks above medium difficulty of the steep couloir (possible rockfall — piton belay) 40 m up to the Western ridge;
• along the ridge, ascent under the wall;
• under the wall, move along medium-difficulty rocks to the right couloir and along steep, with few holds, местами разрушенным rocks above medium difficulty of the couloir, ascend 35–40 m to the Western ridge;
• along the ridge, ascend under the main ascent;
• from the ascent, move to the next right couloir and along it (“live” stones — piton belay) to the Western ridge;
• along steep, snow-covered (“live” stones — piton belay), medium-difficulty rocks of the Western ridge with numerous short walls, ascent 450–500 m to the summit of Chanchakhi.

The path from the sports camp of the Tsey district to the col of the Tsey-Chanchakhi pass is an initial bivouac on the plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Along the snowy col, then along the steep 100–120-meter ice-snow ridge (cornices) to approach the rocky walls of the summit ice of the Eastern ridge of Chanchakhi. From the ridge, traverse 60–80 m to the right to steep slabs of medium difficulty to an internal corner. From here, ascent (pitons belay) along the rocks above medium difficulty of the 20-meter internal corner, and above, along a 60–80-meter wall. Then traverse 60–80 m to the right along simple rocks («live» stones). Along snowy rocks of medium difficulty, ascend to the shoulder area of the Eastern ridge. From the shoulder area, go up along a simple snowy ridge. Then, traverse to the right with a slight ascent along simple and medium difficulty snowy rocks («live» stones — belay) to exit onto a buttress. Along rocks above medium difficulty of the buttress (pitons belay), reach simple destroyed rocks (snowy), and ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi. From the initial bivouac on the plateau II–13 hours. Bivouac on the summit. Descent along the ascent route or along the Southern ridge. Route duration is 3–4 days.

2021 2020 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013

Description

The table "from the north" The route starts on the bridge over the Terek River between the villages of Balta and Chmi, at the mouth of the Vagai-choch (bear) gorge. The bridge is controlled by an MIA (Ministry of Internal Affairs) checkpoint, where there is also a parking area where you can leave your vehicle. Passing through the checkpoint is free, but you need to have your identity documents (passport) with you. From the checkpoint, follow the road east, leaving the "Kavdolomit" quarry to your right, without turning anywhere. Where the road ends, a trail begins, sometimes indistinct, along the bottom of the gorge, passing through the bed of a temporary water flow. The path is obstructed by:

• fallen trees,
• stone blockages,
• bushes. The ravines are quite challenging. Over time, the gorge turns into a narrow canyon with smooth, sheer walls, and further on, the canyon widens again, with the slopes on the northern side becoming gentler. You should follow the trail until you reach a point where a branch trail leads off to the left, up the slope. From the checkpoint, this takes 3–3.5 hours. At this point, there is a fairly steep, grassy slope rising to the ridge, bounded on the east by rocks, along which the ascent to the ridge is made. The ascent from the valley floor to the ridge takes about 1 hour. Follow the ridge east; there is a trail. Over time, the ridge turns to the right, transitioning into a steep, grassy slope with rock outcrops. You should follow the trail, trying to maintain a southerly direction along the gentlest part of the slope. Just below the "table" top, there is a "key" to the route - a rocky belt, which is:

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GIRYAG VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 1B, BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMP MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5, 2019 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Climbing Report

209. Latsha via the East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac at the Garvash Pass (route 205), turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of Latsha's East Ridge via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up simple, then moderately difficult (with protection) rocks of the East Ridge to the "Paltsev" gendarme. Bypass the "Paltsev" on the left and continue up moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From under the second ascent:

• 20 m along a ledge to the left,
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (with pitons) to the ascent,
• 150 m along the narrow snow-and-ice (with cornices) East Ridge to the third ascent. Overcome the third ascent directly up 20-meter moderately difficult rocks (with pitons). Continue along:
• 400–500-meter snow-and-ice East Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Latsha. From Garvash Pass — 5-6 hours.

210. Latsha from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205), ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-and-ice, then simple but crumbling rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanches, protection) to the East Ridge (with cornices) of Latsha.

165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.