Report

The team of the Central Council of DSO "Mehnat" on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the central counterfort of the western wall in the program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1980 Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in the North-Western Pamir in the northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range. It was discovered in 1906 by N. L. Korzhenevsky. The summit was first conquered in 1953. By the present time, many interesting routes have been laid to the summit, including the western wall. The wall was first climbed in 1975 by our team, but as further study of the wall showed, the route taken was objectively dangerous in its lower part, which was dramatically confirmed on July 28 when a massive rockfall occurred down the central couloir. This year, three teams declared their intention to climb the western wall. We chose the safest option - to ascend via the central, indistinctly expressed counterfort. Additional research was conducted on the route, a scheme was drawn up, and the pattern of rockfalls was studied, with overnight stops planned. The team believes that such wall routes should be climbed by small groups, so it was decided to proceed with six climbers. To replenish the team with young participants, additional entries were made. The team consisted of:

• Putinchev A.V. - MS, team captain
• Voronin V.T. - MS

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing region: Central Pamir. 3. Climbing route: peak (Krasnoarmeysky — conditional name), peak 4770 m via South-West buttress. 3.4 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 800 m, average steepness 40°, length of difficult section 80 m + 100 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons 2, ice pitons 9, no drill pitons. 6. Number of walking hours: 8–9 hours.

Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass. The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour). We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

Report

On the ascent of the North Face of Pik OGPU (First Ascent) 5B

Kiev — 1966

Introduction

The object of the ascent, Pik OGPU, is located in the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier in the central Pamirs. This area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is quite well studied both geographically and sportingly. However, until this season, no attempts had been made to ascend Pik OGPU. Our team became interested in Pik OGPU as an object of ascent back in 1964. Then, after a successful ascent of Pik Engels, our team leader V. M. Abalakov first told us about the north face of Pik OGPU, and also provided initial information about the face itself, the rocks, and the nature of ascents in this area. Over the past period, we managed to gather extensive material that gave a fairly complete picture of organizing an expedition to the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier, as well as the peaks, the nature of ascents, relief conditions, weather, etc. As a result of this preparatory work, the Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society announced Pik OGPU for the USSR championship in the 1966 season.

USSR Championship in High-Technical Ascent Class

Peak OGPU (6055 m)
Center of the northwest wall
Team of the Committee for Physical Education and Sports, Leningrad
Leningrad
1973

Brief Information on the Geography of the Region and Sporting Characteristics of Ascents to Peak OGPU

In the center of the northwest region of the Pamir, between the Fedchenko and Bivachny glaciers, there is a northwest spur of the Marx-Engels ridge, stretching from southwest to northeast, where Peak OGPU is located, discovered and mapped back in the 30s. The height of Peak OGPU is 6055 m.

797

Report

JOINT TEAM REPORT OF CS "BUREVESTNIK" AND UE "NUREKGESSTROY" ON THE ASCENT OF PIK OGPU 6028 m VIA THE CENTER OF NAMESTOVSKY, 1966, AND STEPANOV, 1968, ROUTES. High-Altitude Technical Class Team Captain, Candidate for Master of Sport S. Efimov Team Coaches: Honored Master of Sport, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin Master of Sport, Senior Instructor A. Belopukhov Nurek, Central Pamir 1972
Kustovsky's route, 1966. Pik OGPU 6028 m. Stepanov's route, 1968. Route to Pik OGPU. Team overnight locations. Observers' tent.

–2– ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Class — High-altitude Technical
2. Ascent Area — North-western Pamir. Okt. Magistral
3. Ascent Route — with indication of the summit and its height Peak Miroshkin (5900) via the south-eastern spur, approximately 5A cat. dif. (first ascent)
4. Ascent Characteristics — height difference — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of complex section — 100 m

24 4234

Traverse of Western Pamir

Passport

Class of traverses Western Pamir Traverse of peaks 6280–6600–6840–6701–7495 Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent Length 14480 m, max. elevation difference — 2895 m Pitons hammered:

• rock — 42
• ice — 144

Ascent Description of the Unnamed Peak "Patriot Peak" 6350 m

The unnamed peak with an elevation of 6350 m above sea level, conditionally named "Patriot Peak", is located in the southern spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, branching off from the Molotov Glacier, at the fork of the Garmo and Vavilov Glaciers, and separates the basins of the Belyaev and Vavilov Glaciers. See the sketch, figure 1. The ascent to the unnamed peak 6350 m, named "Patriot Peak", was made by the Lokomotiv Sports Society team via the southwest ridge. The starting point of the ascent is the "Sarmot" camp on the moraine, at the fork of the Vavilov and Garmo Glaciers. The camp was named due to the large number of marmots inhabiting the surrounding area. The camp's elevation is 4000 m above sea level. From the Sarmot camp, the ascent goes along the moraines on the right orographic side of the 1st northern tributary of the Vavilov Glacier. At an elevation of 4500 m in the cirque of this tributary, the first camp is set up. On the second day of the ascent, it is necessary to: – cross the glacier; – ascend to the shoulder of the southwest ridge. The path goes through extremely steep firn slopes, intersected by numerous crevasses. It is necessary to wear crampons and move in teams. The overall slope steepness is 35–40°, with a height gain of about 400 m. The direct ascent to the shoulder is made via a steep firn-ice ridge. It is necessary to overcome two steep ice sections: – the first — 80 m, steepness 60°;

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: