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Route Description: Ю гребню по центру В стены
Description of the first ascent route to Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the center of the eastern wall, category 5B difficulty level, in Tian-Shan.
Ascent Certificate
- ASCENT CLASS: technical
- ASCENT AREA: Tian-Shan, Ontor gorge, Kara-Kol area
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the center of the Eastern wall.
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: rocky ELEVATION DIFFERENCE: glacier–summit 900 m, wall section 250 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: wall section 75–85°, entire route 40–50°. LENGTH OF 5–6 difficulty category sections: 280 m
- PITS DRIVEN:
Route Description: правому канту С стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak Mendeleevets (4200 m) via the north wall of the north ridge, difficulty category 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock
- Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge
- Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67°
- Pitons driven: 79
Route Description: центр. Кулуару Ю склона
First ascent of the Tolomush Okeev peak (Teskey Ala-Too range) via the central couloir of the southern slope, cat. dif. 2A, 1013 m height difference.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing category: Technical
- Climbing region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tong pass area, Ashutor tract.
- Peak, route: First ascent of the peak named "Tolomusha Okeeva" via the central couloir of the southern slope.
- Expected category of difficulty: 2A.
- Height difference: 1013 m.
- Total route length: 2255 m.
- Length of key sections: 358 m.
- Of which 2nd category of difficulty — 235 m.
Route Description: В стене
### Ascent Route to Tulenin Peak (4100 m) via the East Face in Tian Shan Category 5A climb description.
Passport
I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,
Route Description: через п. 4560
Climbing passport for Vilnius University Peak (4740 m) via M. Mažvydas Peak, category IIIB climb.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category: technical.
- Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo, 7.II.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Vilnius University, 4740 m, first ascent via peak "4560 m" (peak M. Majvydas).
- Proposed difficulty category: 3B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 640 m; average slope — 30°; length of sections: II — 600 m, III — 850 m, IV — 100 m.
- Pitons hammered: for belay — 23 ice screws.
- Number of climbing hours: 21 hours.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: 5 nights at one location, all normal.
- Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualifications:
Route Description: С кф.
Description of the ascent route to the I peak of Arev peak (3800 m) via the northern counterfort in the Western Tian Shan, category of difficulty 3B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Range
- Peak, its height, ascent route — I-st tower of Peak Arsen, 3800 m; via the northern counterfort
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference – 490 m, route length – 700 m, 2nd diff. cat. – 430 m, 3rd diff. cat. – 160 m, 4th diff. cat. – 85 m, 5th diff. cat. – 35 m. Average steepness – 45°
- Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating KTO:
- rock pitons 36
- ice screws
Route Description: 3 кф. С стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak Sayramskiy (4228 m) via the western counterfort of the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class - rock
- Ascent area - range; Western Tian Shan, Ugam range
- Peak, its height, ascent route - Sayramsky peak, 4238 m, via the western counterfort of the northern wall.
- Estimated difficulty category - 5B
- Route characteristics:
- height difference - 730 m
- length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 404 m
- average steepness - 70°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating RTO
Route Description: В гребню
The ascent to the summit of Manas (4482 m) via the Eastern Ridge, rated as 2B difficulty category, was made by a group led by Gorbatenko V.M. in May 1979.
- Climbing technique, ridge —
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 2B
- Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m
- Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none
- Difference in travel hours — II
- Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the climbing route to the summit of Dhanте Manas (4512 m) along the eastern ridge, difficulty category — 3B.
- The summit, its height, ascent route — Dhante Manas 4512, eastern ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 3rd category
- Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1-5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 300 m, II cat. diff. — 200 m, IV cat. diff. —
- Number of pitons driven for protection to create artificial support points: local — 13 pcs., ice — none, rock — none
- Number of travel hours — 12
- Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification: | Participant | Petrashko | G.A. | — Master of Sports | | ----------- | ---------- | ---- | ------------------ | | -"- | Mukanov | K.B. | — 1st sports rank |
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
Description of the route with complexity category 5B through the left part of the 3rd wall of the South spur of the Dzhanlychak peak, with a detailed analysis of sections and belay points used.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
- Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
- Difficulty category: 5B.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: