2286

V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":

• PRIMITIVE ROUTE
• SNESAREV'S ROUTE
• CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
• MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)

1. Climbing class — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:

• I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category

ascending to the summit of CHEGET-KARA-BASHI (traverse with ascent along the north-eastern ridge and descent via route category II difficulty) The first ascent of the route was made in the 1974 season by a group of instructors from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp led by V.N. Lukinov. In the 1975 season, the ascent was repeated by a group of instructors from the same camp consisting of:

• 1. Presnov V.A., 2nd category, leader
• 2. Maerkovich V.V., Master of Sports
• 3. Zhukov S.Ya., 1st category
• 4. Kruglov E.M., 1st category
• 5. Stepanov V.N., 1st category
• 6. Silin B.M., 1st category
• 7. Razumov Yu.A., 1st category

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Main Caucasus Range, Northern spur of Ullukara.
3. ASCENT ROUTE WITH INDICATION OF PEAKS AND THEIR HEIGHTS: v. Cheget-Kara – 3667 m, via the left Southeast buttress.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 4A cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference: 850–900 m, average slope – 45°, length of complex section – 240 m.
6. NUMBER OF PITO NS INSTALLED: rock – 12, ice –
7. NUMBER OF TRAVELING HOURS: 7 hours.
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS: –
9. FULL NAME OF LEADER, PARTICIPANTS, AND THEIR QUALIFICATION:

4. Climbing description

for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B. “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A. Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.” Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.

1. Summit, its height — peak XIV съезда ВЛКСМ, 3465 m
2. Ascent route — south-eastern edge from the cirque of Sakashil glacier.
3. Proposed complexity category — 3B
4. Route characteristic: rocky, height difference — 350 m, average steepness 55°.
5. Pitons driven: rock — II pcs.
6. Number of travel hours: a) Tyrnyauz — bivouac — 6 h; b) bivouac — summit — 6 h
7. Number of overnight stays — one overnight stay at a bivouac at the Small Lake on the terminal moraine of Sakashil glacier.
8. Leader: EFREMOV Vladimir Vasilievich, 1st sports category Participants:

• Galyamov Shagimul Magadovich — 1st sports category

SPARTAK KABARDINO-BALKAR COUNCIL DOSAAF

Report on the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol

(approximately 4A category of difficulty)

Central Caucasus

Team coach — Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR Yu.A. Ivanov Team captain — 1st sports category V.N. Li

Nalchik

September 2–4, 1978

Description of the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol (Route 4A category of difficulty, September 3–4, 1978)

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Baksan Valley, Main Caucasian Range, Donguzorun valley cirque. 2 Peak 3650 m (Stalingrad Battle), via the North Ridge.
2. Proposed — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
3. The route is ice-snow.
4. Height difference of the route:
   • from the Bezymyanny pass — 400 m;
   • from the bottom of the valley — 900 m; Route length — 900 m; Average steepness of the route — 30°;

Ascent Passport

1. Class of technical (winter) ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge.
3. Shkhelda Second Western (4310 m), via the northern wall "The Night Before Christmas".
4. Proposed category: 5B difficulty level, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m (by altimeter), length — 2400 m. Length of 5th category difficulty sections — 800 m. Length of 6th category difficulty sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°, main part — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 12, friends — 15, ice screws — 65. Left on the route: rock pitons — 2.
7. Team's travel hours: 23 hours and 2.5 days.
8. Overnights: 1st in a tent on a snowy ridge, 2nd in a tent under a rock outcropping, sitting.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich