Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Akkum (4098 m)

Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)

The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment. Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree. From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side. In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made. After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:

• several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again. Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.

Description of the AKSAY Horseshoe Traverse

Alma-Ata, 1963 The ridge of the Aksay horseshoe between peaks II and III.

Team I Leader

Master of Sports Mar'yashev A.

Team Members

1. Toporkov A. - 2nd sports category

Almaty-Alagir (4223 m)

Ascent from the northwest side — cat. diff. 1B

The summit of Almaty-Alagir is located in the watershed ridge system at the head of the Ozerny gorge and is the highest point in the area. Long, gradually descending ridges stretch to the south and southwest from it. To the north lies a snowy-ice slope, and to the east, the snow cover is interspersed with talus sections. It is more convenient to ascend from the Prokhodnoye valley, from the northwest side. Climbing up the valley, bypass the Alma-Arasan resort (the Big Almaty spur stretches to the right). Before reaching the Prokhodnoy pass, turn left towards the unnamed "3400 m" pass, located between the Almaty-Alagir and Karniznaya peaks. From the latter, a small ridge extends towards the Prokhodnoye valley. Leaving the pass on the left side, reach the moraine of a small glacier descending into the Prokhodnoye valley. The glacier is not steep, intersected here and there by large crevasses. Ahead are the ridge slopes of the Almaty-Alagir peak. Without traversing the entire glacier, turn left. Attention should be paid to the northwest side of the summit, from which rocky ridges descend, separated by wide couloirs. Then, ascend one of the couloirs with a steepness of 40–45°, at the bottom of which lies coarse, loose talus. Exercising caution, ascend to the shoulder of the summit and follow a gentle slope to the top. Descend via the ascent route. The entire ascent takes 6–7 hours. M. T. Pogrebetskiy first reached this summit in 1927. The first ascent from the eastern side was made in 1952 by Almaty climbers K. Menzhulin and A. Maryashev.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymyaniy Glacier.

Overview

Peak Amangeldy, 1B, V. Zimin, 1937

This is probably the most frequently visited route in Tuyuk-Su. From Alpinigrad move up the slope located on the left, in the direction of the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, follow the trail upwards, then traverse the talus slope, and then enter the steep couloir. In winter, it may be necessary to put on equipment already there - there may be hard sastrugi in the couloir. In summer, it's talus with rock outcrops. Climb up to the next couloir, move up it until it ends. The start of the route is on a ledge under a steep wall. R0­–R1

• Move right, exit onto a ledge
• From this ledge, climb up an inside corner (15 m II) to the next ledge
• Belay station on a protrusion

GTO­ — Karatau

Traverse of the peaks GTO­ — Kolokolnikova­ — Karatau, route category 2B (Fig. 53). The approach path from the Talgar alpine camp is described in the ascent route to GTO peak. The description of the first part of the traverse — ascent to the peaks GTO and Kolokolnikova­ — is given in the corresponding descriptions of ascents to these peaks. From Kolokolnikova peak to the southeast to Karatau peak. This section of the route abounds with "zhandarms" made of rocks of medium difficulty. All of them are overcome head-on, as detour is associated with a large loss of height. The ridge throughout its entire length is technically not difficult, but is heavily destroyed and requires great caution in movement

Fig. 53

20 Years of KazGMI (4089 m)

Ascent via the Northwest Ridge — Category 2A complexity

The peak 20 Years of KazGMI, named in honor of the twentieth anniversary of the Kazakh Institute of Mining and Metallurgy (now known as the Kazakh Polytechnic Institute named after V.I. Lenin), is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau within the Sredny Aksai glacial cirque. To its southwest lies the peak Promezhutochnaya, while to the north, a small ridge descends, separating the left and right branches of the Aksai glacier. The southern slopes of the peak are the source of the right tributary of the Almaty river, which is one of the tributaries of the Chong-Kemin river. Approaches to the peak should be made from the upper reaches of Sredny Aksai. The initial bivouac is best set up on a small, almost horizontal site with steep edges. The moraine of the Right Aksai glacier also reaches this location. A stream runs between the edge and the moraine. From this vantage point, the glacier lying in the upper reaches of Sredny Aksai is clearly visible. From the bivouac, proceed along the edge to the east until you find a suitable spot to descend onto the right branch of the Aksai glacier. Cross it and reach the lateral moraine at the point where the depression between the moraine and the northwest ridge of the peak is clearly visible. It takes about 1 hour from the bivouac.

Peak Jambula (4150 m) Ascent to peak Jambula with ascent from the northwest, route 2B cat. sl. (fig. 14). From the bivouac at the lake under the tongue of the North TEU glacier, move to the South TEU glacier, bypassing the ridge coming from the Syputchaya peak. Ascend to the col between the peaks TEU and Jambula via the South TEU glacier. Move along the glacier in teams along the median moraine. Bypass the crevasse zone from the left. The ascent to the col is via a snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°, then via scree and heavily destroyed rocks. From the col, go along the snowy ridge to the 1st gendarme, which is taken head-on. Descent to the 2nd gendarme is via heavily destroyed rocks and snow. The 2nd gendarme is bypassed from the left along a slope with a steepness of 60°. Careful belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The 3rd gendarme is also bypassed from the left along a snowy-icy slope, closer to the rocks. Here, piton belaying is necessary (2–3 pitons), sometimes step chiseling. The 4th gendarme is bypassed from the left along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 30°. Here, alternate belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The route continues along an icy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then via destroyed rocks and scree reaches the summit. From the bivouac to the summit is 5–6 hours of walking. The summit consists of two elevations. The cairn is on the northwestern one. Descent is along the northeastern ridge to the South TEU glacier along a slope with a steepness of up to 45° with protruding large stones. Careful belaying is necessary. "Sheep's foreheads" are bypassed from the right. Go carefully: it is necessary to take into account the avalanche danger. The descent to the South TEU glacier goes along a snowy slope and takes about 2 hours.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: