Fig. 19 73. Taymaz Western peak ascent via North-East couloir and Western ridge (combined route by A. Rzhevsky, category III difficulty, fig. 19). The path from "Taymazi" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the exit onto the Taymazi East glacier is described in route 72. Upon reaching the Taymazi East glacier (closed crevasses), cross it, avoiding crevasses, upwards to the right under the North ridge - a spur of the Tsentralnaya Taymazi peak, separating the Taymazi East and Taymazi West glaciers. From the Taymazi East glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep avalanche-prone slope, followed by a snow slope, and further up - a simple, fragmented rocky couloir to reach the broad North ridge - a spur of Tsentralnaya Taymazi. The ridge serves as the initial bivouac site. The journey from "Taymazi" meadow takes 5-6 hours. From the bivouac, descend from the ridge onto the snow plateau of the Taymazi West glacier and traverse it (closed crevasses), avoiding crevasses to the left, to approach a steep snow couloir descending northeast from the Western ridge and the North counterfort of Taymazi West. From the plateau, overcome the wide bergschrund in the center via a snow bridge, then ascend directly up the 500-600-meter ice-and-snow couloir (possible rockfall from the left walls - belay) and through a steep ice gorge (pitched belay) to reach the right side of the first pinnacle on the Western ridge of Taymazi West.

Fig. 19 77. Tajmazi East — West (combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of East Tajmazi is described in route 72. From the East summit, descend along a simple rocky ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along a wide, long snow-covered simple rocky ridge, bypassing numerous small gendarmes on the left and overcoming only one head-on, then along a simple wide snow-covered ridge, ascend to Central Tajmazi. From the East summit, it takes 2 hours 30 minutes. From the Central summit, descend along a wide steep snowy ridge towards the West summit onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along a wide ledge, then along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge, ascend to under the summit tower of the VII gendarme (first from the Central summit). Bypass the tower on the right, then rappel onto the saddle under the VI Double-Humped gendarme. Along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend a 15-20-meter wall onto the gendarme. From the Double-Humped gendarme, make a sports descent onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend 45-50 meters onto the V gendarme (pitons insurance). From it, descend using sports equipment. Then, along a narrow ridge, passing small gendarmes head-on, approach the IV gendarme, overcome it head-on along rocks of average difficulty, and descend onto the saddle under the III gendarme. Bypass the III and II gendarmes along ledges and rocks of average difficulty (pitons insurance) on the right side of the ridge, then ascend a 15-meter wall onto the saddle under the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on and along a snowy (cornices), then narrow rocky ridge, ascend to the summit of West Tajmazi. The route includes the following sections:

Fig. 19 76. Tajmazi Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya (combined route by G. Cherevichenko, 4A category of difficulty, fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Zapadnaya Tajmazi is described in route 74. From Zapadnaya Tajmazi, descend in the direction of Central'naya Tajmazi along a narrow rocky, then snowy (cornices) ridge to under the I gendarme. Overcome it directly along the ridge with a descent to under the II gendarme. From under the II gendarme, make a 15 m rappel to the left and along the rocks on the left side — bypass the II and III gendarmes of the ridge. Overcome the IV gendarme directly along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge. Further, along a narrow ridge with several low gendarmes (overcome directly along the ridge), exit under the large V-gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly. From it, make a difficult 15 m descent to a platform, from which make a 30 m rappel to a snowpatch. Then, along rocks of above-average difficulty, make an ascent (piton belay) to the VI — Dvugorbyi gendarme, from it make a 15 m rappel to a saddle under the VII gendarme. Along the ridge, ascend to the gendarme, traverse along the left side (pitons belay) of the summit ridge of the gendarme. At the end of the gendarme, move to its right side. From here, descend along an internal angle, then along a wide, destroyed ledge, exit to a saddle under the ascent to Central'naya summit. On the saddle, make a bivouac. Travel time:

• From Zapadnaya Tajmazi: 4–6 hours
• From the initial bivouac: 9–11 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. 300 years of St. Petersburg — 3505 m; via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 1B cat. dif.; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Length of the key part of the route — 50 m (from the exit point to the North ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with 4 cat. dif. — 2 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 70°.

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Route Description

R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:

• traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.

Route Description

9. Tsukhgar­ty via the South­ern Counter­fort and East­ern Ridge (com­bi­ned route, 2A cat. dif., Fig. 2, 4). From the “Nakhashbi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (north-east) along grassy slopes, then scree to the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier, which flows down from the Tsukhgar­ty massif be­tween its South­ern Ridge and South­ern Counter­fort. From here, straight up the snow slope with sim­ple rock out­crops (pro­tec­tion) of the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier. In the up­per part of the glacier, where it widens, turn right and:

• via sim­ple rock out­crops, al­ter­nat­ing with ice and snow slopes (pro­tec­tion)
• then via sim­ple rocks and scree as­cend to the South­ern Counter­fort. Here, turn left and via sim­ple rocks and scree of the long South­ern Counter­fort

Fig. 4 8. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on the left is described in routes 1, 6. On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's East Ridge. Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones - protection) under the vertical walls.

Fig. 5 11. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:

• snow-covered talus,
• a snowy slope,
• simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
• a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 3-4 hours. Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.

ADAM 4B

VIA NORTH-WESTERN WALL

R12–R11 300 m 25–30° 3 SNOW-ICE RIDGE R10–R11 80 m 40° 3 BROKEN ROCK R9–R10 100 m 50° 4 ICE R8–R9 60 m 45° 3–4 BROKEN ROCK

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent