Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — № 4.3.
3. Summit — Komurzang Peak, height 4649 m, route via the Northwest Ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, average slope 50°, length of sections of II difficulty category — 700 m, III difficulty category — 1000 m.
6. 5 rock anchors installed for belaying.
7. Total moving time — 6 hours 30 minutes.
8. No overnight stops on the route.
9. Climbers: Leader — Valery Alexandrovich Ovsyannikov (1st sports category), participants:

Ascent Log

1. CATEGORY: technically challenging ascents.
2. REGION: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
3. ROUTE: first ascent of Maly Ravak peak via the northern counterfort, ridge.
4. Ascent description: height difference: 4600–3800 = 800 m; average steepness 45°–60°; length of difficult sections — 400 m, including very difficult — 55 m.
5. Pitons hammered: 24 (rock).
6. Number of travel hours: 14.
7. Team name: team of LGS DSO “Spartak”.
8. Team composition:
   1. Baybara Viktor Savelyevich — team leader, 1st sports category.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK ROVANG (4796 m) VIA THE NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORT OF THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY 4B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY. Peak Rovan'g is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanchsky ridge in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Rovan'g-Dara river. The peak is visible from the village of Garmchashma. It is a partially snow-covered rocky massif, significantly higher than the pass points in the ridge, has 3 not very pronounced peaks and several counterforts extending to the North-West. To the North, a rib extends, dividing the Rovan'g-Dara river gorge into two branches. DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE From the village of Garmchashma along the road up to the Rovan'g-Dara gorge. Before reaching the fork in the gorge, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the river (until mid-July - via a snow bridge) and, ascending along the grassy rib, reach the "letovka". From the village, it takes 2-2.5 hours. Then, traverse left along the grassy slope to the left tributary of the Rovan'g-Dara river and along the tributary to the moraine, bypassing 3 canyons along steep grassy and clayey slopes with rocky outcrops. On the moraine, a place for a tent is cleared, and an overnight stay is set up. Water is available under the snow to the left and right of the moraine. From the village, it takes 7-8 hours. On the approach, it is advisable to wear crampons (steep grassy slopes, lack of trails, hard clay-pebble ground).

Route Description

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging First ascent, approximately 5-4 difficulty category. 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanchsky Ridge. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations: Unnamed peak — 5231 m (conditionally named p. Khrustalny) via the western ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1731 m, average steepness — 50°, length of complex sections:

• ridge before the gendarme wall — 300 m,
• wall of the trapezoidal gendarme — 200 m,

I. Category of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Central Pamir 3. Route of ascent — Peak Khrustalny (name), 5281 m, north face. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1780 m, average steepness — 68°, length of difficult section — 430 m 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 272, ice — 40, bolt — 0 6. Number of climbing hours — 42.5 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 3 8. Team name — Alpine Club "Donbass" 9. Surname, name, patronymic of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing area: Central Pamir. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: peak Kamensk Ural'skiy (conventional name), peak 5080 m via the North Counterfort. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 700–750 m, average steepness 55°, slope length 60 m + 150 m + 120 m. 5. Number of pitons hammered in:

• rock pitons — 37
• ice screws — 9

углом. There is a small area for one person. From the area, the ascent goes through a crack (7 m), which turns into a narrow chimney (12 m), the steepness of the section is 80–85°. The chimney leads to an area where 6–8 people can be accommodated, and there is 1 control cairn on the area. From the control cairn, the ascent goes straight up through an internal corner (810 m), then traversing left — exit to the external corner and ascent along it 20–25 m to a black inclined shelf going left upwards. From it, it is necessary to move to the right, traversing a complex slab-like part of the wall — 20 m — to a chimney. The chimney widens upwards and is closed by a plug in its upper part. The length of the chimney is 20–25 m. At the base of the chimney, there is a small area where backpacks can be received and

The preliminary ridge of the left peak and snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices to the NE side.

• Two rocky "mandarins" are passed with piton belay.
• The last three rope lengths to the ascent to the summit are very steep.
• The exit to the summit is through a snow cornice 1–1.5 m wide. The summit is snowy. A cairn is built one rope length below the summit on the rocks. The descent is made via the approach route — 5–6 hours. The route is of the 4th cat. diff. Estimated ascent time:

1. Ascent from the 3800 m lake to the bivouac on the 4800 m ridge — 3 hours.
2. Passage of the section from 4800 m to the 5280 m summit — 8 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people.

The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours. From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours. The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.