Alupkinskaya Wall — 3B.

«Ulfhednar», via the grotto of the eastern sector of the Alupkinskaya Wall, 5B

The route's length (excluding approaches, 150–180 m, 1A–1Б category) is 320 m, of which:

• 4th category — 25–30 m.
• 5th category — 130–150 m.
• 6th category — 100–120 m. In sections of 6th category:
• ITO complexity A2 — 18–20 m.
• A2,5–A3 — 7–8 m.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

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Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall. Equipment:

• hammers and pitons
• a set of quickdraws
• medium and large nuts
• medium and large cams.

Arfen Cherburun — 3

Route scheme "Oba-Na!" cat. VI, m. Aya, "Arfen" peak (235.2 m) Streltsov S., Zakutin A. 13–18.07.2001.

Tactical tips for wall passage.

I. Basing in the mouth of the Kazán-Dere tract allows:

• to carry out landing from small vessels and evacuation in sea roughness up to 3 points from all directions except "South-West", "West";
• to fully recover strength, since here, unlike "Lost World", there is no such abundance of noisy neighbors;
• to save money on renting a yawl;

Kilse-Burun (712 m) — 14. "Hot Peace", 6A

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Kharkov On October 17-18, Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkov) and Yuri Kruglov (Sevastopol) ascended a new route with a difficulty of 6A, in classical style from bottom to top, without prior processing from the top. The new route passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The line passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The landmark from the road is a large pine tree on the ledge.

• R0–R1. Up to the right on the broken rocks. Station on a large ledge, 10 m to the left of the large pine tree. 35 m, IV.
• R1–R2. Up 5 m, then to the right into the red corner and up the right wall onto a large ledge. From the ledge, on the wall, find a hole for a skyhook and then up a small crack under the overhang with a characteristically pronounced square stone. Station on its own (anchor hook left). 38 m, VI, A2.
• R2–R3. From under the overhang to the right and up 8 m, to a vertical crack. Up the crack. Station on the shallowing, there is a bolt and a hook. 38 m, VI, A2+. Almost all stations are protected from stones.

Ascent Log

I. Rock climbing category 2. Region: Crimea, Bati-Liman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via the center of the Southwest wall 5. Climbing category: 4B 6. Route description: height difference — 410 m, length — 470 m. Average slope — 61° 7. Equipment used: 20 rock pitons, 13 stoppers 8. Duration: 5 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours 9. Ascent leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov, team member: Andrey V. Levin. Coach: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov. Ascent completed on November 9, 1980.

Ascent Passport

1. Type: Rock climbing
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South wall, "pants" via left pant leg
5. Difficulty category: 6A
6. Route characteristics: Height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
7. Equipment used: Rock pitons — 13 pcs, nuts — 20 pcs
8. Duration: 7 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
9. Ascent leader: YArunov Aleksandr Georgievich, 2nd sports category, participant: Nesterov Vitold Petrovich, 1st sports category

Bedovaya Golova 4A cat.­ diff.

Bedovaya Golova, 4A cat.­ diff. Then there is an exit to a sloping shelf with grass. Go left-up to a large stone with a small tree. Station on a stone (there is a bolt with a ring). Mike from above R2–R3: 60–70 m along the "gardens" — under the yellow spot in the inner corner. Station on 2 bolts (a triangle is knocked out).

Route description prepared by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow Uarch-Kaya, "Karnaval" route, cat. 4B, (10 pitches, 6a grade), 270 m "Karnaval" route line

Condition as of August 30, 2003

Approach: From the forester's house near Kilse-Burun peak, take the Upper Road for 3.5 km towards "Chortova Lestnica" pass. You can leave your car near the second bridge (counting from the forester's house). From the memorial, follow a wide, well-trodden path (the path starts from the "Opolznevskoe forestry" sign on the left side of the road, if you're driving from the forester's house) upwards towards "Chortova Lestnica" pass for about 3-4 minutes until you reach the southeastern ridge, where the "Surpriz" 1B route begins. The start of the "Surpriz" route is marked with blue paint on the rock. From the inscription, follow downwards along the riverbed for about 50 m, then turn right and move about 20 m under the wall to the characteristic blocky rocks (a sign should be installed here soon). R0–R1:

• Climb simple blocky rocks to the left onto a ledge with trees (20 m, no protection)
• Then, follow an internal corner with a stationary piton at its base, move 25 m (III+, medium and large stoppers, friends) right-upwards along moderately difficult rocks to a large terrace with juniper. Belay station on two stationary pitons.

G. Merdven kaya (856 m) via the center of the SW wall "Fal'start" 5B, approximately.

Tsushko T., Khomenko A., 13–14.01.08 The approach from the upper road takes 10 minutes. The start of the route is a long crack that leads to a flattening. Further, along the rocks of medium difficulty, move towards a huge chimney-crack, through which you exit to the yayla. The route length is about 350 m. R0–R1. First, a crawl, then up to A-2 through the crack (a bolt is hammered 15 m above the ground). At the belay station: bolt + own. The crack is partially destroyed; in some places, it's better to belay from the left and right walls away from the crack. 45 m. 1–2 First, through the crack to A-2 — 35 m, then climb the chimney — 10 m, and exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, left and up to a tree. Near the tree, the belay station: bolt + nuts; the tree does not inspire confidence. 53–55 m. 2–3 Along the ledge, left and up, then easy climbing:

• first, up the slab,
• then up the flake,
• we climb to a flattening; on the left, there's a large pine.

On the right side of the "Green corner" through the eaves 5A, VI, 400 m, V. Timofeev, 1981. The route can be started along the left CPC, or like the previous route, the main thing is to reach the large ledge. R3–R4: Up the cleft, to the tree. Station on the tree. IV, 30 m R4–R5: From the tree upwards along a steep, interrupted cleft 10 m, V+, further it becomes easier, along an overgrown cleft 40 m, IV. Station on a ledge. V+, 50 m R5–R6: Up the cleft, climbing is difficult, exit to a small ledge in front of the eaves. There is a bolt. VI, A1, 40 m R6–R7: From the station up, under the eaves. The first one is bypassed on the left, then traverse to the right, exit to the inner corner 10 m, V+, further up the system of inner corners 40 m, IV–V, station on a tree. V, 50 m From here, first along simple rocks 20 m, then walking along the slope to reach the yayla. From the "hardware" you will need:

• nuts
• cams