Ascent Log

I. Rock climbing category 2. Region: Crimea, Bati-Liman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via the center of the Southwest wall 5. Climbing category: 4B 6. Route description: height difference — 410 m, length — 470 m. Average slope — 61° 7. Equipment used: 20 rock pitons, 13 stoppers 8. Duration: 5 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours 9. Ascent leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov, team member: Andrey V. Levin. Coach: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov. Ascent completed on November 9, 1980. 10. Organization: Sevastopol sports clubApproach from the right of the "Africa" wall via a couloir, left and up to the left side of the upper (pink) rock belt. R0–R1. Start up a wide vertical crack in an inner corner. Remnants of climbing competition restrictions are visible here. Up the crack, 30–35 m straight up to a ledge, then 10–15 m up to a pine tree. R1–R2. Up and right under the neck of a cirque. To the right of the neck, under the start of an inner corner, near a tree, is a belay station, 70 m. R2–R3. Up an overgrown corner almost to an overhanging chimney, 20 m, then move to the left wall of the corner and straight up through broken rock, 25–30 m to a tree. R3–R4. From the tree, 10 m up and right, then via a couloir into a cirque. First 50 m left, then up the cirque's slabs, which are up to 50° steep, 100 m under the upper wall, towards a large chimney in the center of the wall. Belay station at the start of a thin crack on a small ledge. R4–R5. Straight up through cracks, where it's hard to place pitons. Hanging piton belay on the wall after 40 m. R5–R6. Straight up, then traverse 30 m left across a slab, along a slope, and into a widening couloir, 45 m. R6–R7. From the couloir, exit right and up over a ridge to a crack, and follow it to just under a cornice. Hanging belay station under the cornice near a small bush; 45 m. R7–R8. Traverse the cornice with difficult climbing using ladders. Then about 25 m straight up through slightly broken rock to reach the summit. Required equipment: rope — 50 m; stoppers — 6–7 pcs.; rock pitons — 5–6 pcs.; long channel (25 cm) — 1 pc.; ladders.www.alpfederation.ru↗