Ascent Passport

1. Type: Rock climbing
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South wall, "pants" via left pant leg
5. Difficulty category: 6A
6. Route characteristics: Height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
7. Equipment used: Rock pitons — 13 pcs, nuts — 20 pcs
8. Duration: 7 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
9. Ascent leader: YArunov Aleksandr Georgievich, 2nd sports category, participant: Nesterov Vitold Petrovich, 1st sports category
10. Coach: Kaver Igor Kirillovich
11. Ascent date: March 8, 1989
12. Organization: Alpine club "Sevastopol"

KUSH-KAYA via S wall, "pants" via left pant leg, 6A category

Approach from the belay station left-up along the ledge, then 20 m up through cracks to a large terrace under yellow overhanging rocks and under them to the right to a tree growing on the slope bend. R0–R1: From the tree up 10–15 m and to the right through several strawberry trees another 15 m to a ledge. R1–R2: Straight up through a small inner corner to a ledge under a smooth slab, which is passed on the left part, and through the inner corner climb left-up to a tree. R2–R3: 5 meters along the corner under a 4-meter wall, through it exit to grassy ledges, along which to the right and up to a tree under red overhanging rocks. R3–R4: From the tree to the left to a gray slab and along a crack 15 m to trees on a ledge. Further 60–70 m to the right and up along ledges to a large juniper below a hollow. R4–R5: From the tree 6 m along the wall and crack, through a 3-meter inner corner to a horizontal ledge and along it to the left 15 m. A vertical 10-meter wall leads to an inclined ledge with a tree. R5–R6: 15 m up along rocks of medium difficulty, then 15 m of vertical wall with bolts. Belay station on the wall on bolts. R6–R7: Along the bolted path towards the red overhanging wall past a small tree. Higher, a 6-meter inner corner leads to a ledge under the red wall. Further to the right 10 m to the start of a trough-like groove. R7–R8: Along the left or right crack of the "trough" 15–18 m to the top of the "cucumber". From it 5–6 m left-up along a slab to the start of an inner corner and along it 15–20 m to a tree growing in a gully. R8–R9: Along the gully and slab 5 m to a 7-meter wall with a crack, after it slightly to the left to an inclined inner corner. After the corner to a vertical 5-meter wall, then along a steep crack 15–20 m to the summit.

Required equipment: rope — 45–50 m; nuts — 10–12 pcs; rock pitons — 6–8 pcs; ladders — 2 pcs.

Route scheme

KUSH-KAYA via S wall, "pants" via left pant leg, 6A category

R10 35–40 m, 85°, V–VI R9 35 m, 85°, V R8 20 m, 90°, VI 20 m, 50°, III R7 10 m, 70°, V 7 m, 90°, VI R6 25 m, 80°, V (A2e) 15 m, 85°, V (A2e) R5 15 m, 75°, V 10 m, 80°, VI (A1e) R4 10 m, 85°, V+ 15 m R3 60–70 m, 60°, II+ 60 m, 30°, I–II R2 50 m, 60°, II+ R1 30 m, 45°, II+ R0