Bedovaya Golova 4A cat. diff.
Bedovaya Golova, 4A cat. diff.
Then there is an exit to a sloping shelf with grass. Go left-up to a large stone with a small tree.
Station on a stone (there is a bolt with a ring).
Mike from above
R2–R3: 60–70 m along the "gardens" — under the yellow spot in the inner corner.
Station on 2 bolts (a triangle is knocked out).
R3–R4: 40 m, 6А. At first to the right upwards along sloping slabs, under an overhang 68 m, then a transition back to the left to a crack (through a bolt), and then through a slight overhang (cornice). Insurance is self-made + the above-mentioned bolt. After the cornice straight up along the inner corner with a crack, insurance is self-made. Station on a large branching pine.
From above
R4–R5: 50 m, 6a. To the right upwards under an overhang, then a transition to the left, under a vertical crack in the cornice («Mercedes»). In the brow of the cornice there is a bolt. Climb straight through it. From the station to the bolt 12 m. After the cornice, a simple (easy) exit along the "fields" and "gardens" upwards. In the brow, when exiting to the shoulder, a bolt is driven into a large stone. Station on it, or, more conveniently, on a juniper a little further (already on level ground).
[This rope can be bypassed by going left along the shelf].
Recommended equipment:
Rope 50–55 m, 10–12 quickdraws, standard set of nuts, medium and large cams (3–4 pcs), they can be replaced with hexes, 2 large and 3 small slings.
Insurance is mostly self-made and easy to organize. The route is safe, although it still needs to be cleaned.