for the in-situ pitons, whose pulled-out remnants are weakly held. The жандарм must be crossed with careful lower belay! The жандарм ends abruptly on the ridge with a 3-meter wall. Descent to the ridge can be done in a sportsmanlike manner, by wrapping the rope around one of the firm in-situ pitons. Further on, the path to the third жандарм is straightforward and goes along easy rocky terrain. The last жандарм is a rock formation inclined to the east, 30–50 m in length. The жандарм is traversed from the left (as one ascends) — the only possible way to overcome it. One needs to descend along moderate rocks, 3 m, to a ledge, left and down in the direction of travel, and reach a narrow ledge (10 cm) about 2 meters long. The ledge ascends obliquely upwards, leading to a steep internal corner and ends abruptly. After the corner, the ledge continues. The internal corner is wide with smooth walls; there are very few cracks. The rocks are complex, and

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Climbing area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Kyzkochkan, height 4100 m (according to KTMGV), ascent route via the northern ridge
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Route description: elevation gain 900 m, length of sections 5–6 km/tr, 280 m, average steepness 60°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO. Rock pitons 67 (including 1 ice piton). Ice pitons —. Bolt pitons —.
7. Total climbing hours 10.8 + 4 hours of preliminary reconnaissance and processing on 20.08.1977.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one — in a tent on a constructed ledge. Safe, but no water.
9. Team leader, participants, and their qualifications:

51. Osh — Glavnaya via the North Slope of the East Buttress of the South Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 4.5–5 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine in the upper cirque of the Kurgan valley — see route 10. From the initial bivouac:

• Ascend the broad slope of the northern spur, composed of small and medium talus, to the right of the base of the East Buttress, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop on the left and the upper one on the right.
• Above it, make a 60-meter traverse left along simple, broken rocks on the left side to bypass the 1st sentinel of the saddle.
• Behind the sentinel, reach the crest of the saddle below the 2nd large sentinel.
• Ascend steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty along the 80-meter crest (pitons for protection) to the 2nd sentinel.
• Cairn.

Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak

via NW ridge - 26 km journey The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak. Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir. From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area. Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section. Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone. Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.

ASCENT LOG.

5.2.12

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. Peak, its height, route — p. Bivachnaya, 3400–3320 m, via the West face. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 115 m, average steepness — 57°. Pitons hammered in:

• rock — 92
• ice —

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge (5.2.19)
2. Peak: Western peak of Varzob Saw (via the center of the western wall), 3830 m
3. Difficulty category: 3B (previously 4A)
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Elevation gain: 350 m Route length: 610 m including:

• sections of 4th difficulty category — 60 m
• sections of 3B difficulty category — 130 m

5.2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAI, HISSAR RANGE
3. Ascent route — ZAMIN KAROR EASTERN-II 4554 m, from the north via the edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1204 m, average steepness 59°, length of complex sections — 830 m.
5. Hooks used: rock — 123, ice — 11, bolt — 0
6. Total hours on the route — 25.3 hours
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs
8. Team name: team from Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent area — Gissar Range. 3. Ascent route — first ascent via the north wall of Peak 4630 m, Zamin-Karor NE. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1450 m, average steepness 74°, length of complex sections 1390 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock 227, ice 41, bolted 11. 6. Total climbing hours — 65. 7. Number of nights on the route — 4, all uncomfortable, semi-reclined, and in hammocks. 8. Team. The ascent was made by a team of instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp of the CS DSO "Tadzhikistan". 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical class.
2. Yaghnob. Hissar Range.
3. Summit Zamin-Karor 2nd West via N-3 slope, 4525 m.
4. Category 5B (rated).
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m; length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 460 m; average steepness — 70–75°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship

2014 Description of the ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central buttress of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty (E. Poltavets, 2010) ROUTE COMPLETED BY TEAM FASIL Team captain - Nikitin Andrey Borisovich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, point 2.5.226
2. Name of the summit: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central buttress of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A
4. Route type: rock climbing