The summit 4470 (p. Bivachnaya) is located in the northern lateral spur of the Gummi ridge (Pamirs-Alai), which separates the V I (l. Verkhniy) and Nizhniy Guamshi glaciers. At the summit 4470 (p. Bivachnaya):

• It is connected by a ridge to the summit 4600 (p. Trenirovochnуy) to the north
• The ridge descends to the Guamshi river
• It is a destroyed red-colored gendarme
• The eastern slopes steeply drop to the Nizhniy Guamshi glacier From the west, a number of counterforts approach the main ridge, separated by steep (up to 50°) snow-ice couloirs. A group of climbers from the Alay tourist center, consisting of Shkodin V.G. (leader), Dodiy V.,

Description of the approach to the route

From the base camp located in Guamyщ valley, ascend the grassy slope to the moraine of Glacier №4. Follow the glacier to the glacial lakes, turn left towards the wide couloir narrowing at the top (1 hour).

Brief explanation of the table

Section О–I: Ascend the snow-filled couloir to the saddle. The couloir is traversed with alternating belay, belay through an ice axe. There are sections covered with ice, which can be bypassed via неслож­ным (uncomplicated) rocks with a key belay (I piton). The steepness of the section is 50°. Section I–2: The exit to the saddle is represented by destroyed rocks (40 m) with a five-meter rock wall at the bottom. The belay is piton (2 pitons). Steepness is 60°. Section 2–3: From the saddle, move left along the ridge through destroyed rocks and talus shelves, bypassing gendarmes on the left. The summit is a destroyed rock of red color. Descent to the north via a couloir.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category ROCK
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
4. Proposed difficulty category

Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

Kumbel

South of the junction peak of Jalan-Kanysh in the Kyzyk-Alay ridge, between the Chugam and Kurgan passes, stands a small simple rocky peak Kumbel with a height of 4180 m, with gentle tall scree slopes at its foot. Only one route has been laid to the summit — on February 16, 1987, a group consisting of V. Suviga, Yu. Gorbunov, S. Ovcharenko, and A. Studenin ascended to the summit of Kumbel via the southern slope. Ascents via the Eastern and Western ridges and from the north to the summit have not been made.

2. Kumbel via the southern slope of the Western ridge

The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 6, 8, 9). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2–6 people), cross the Kurgan river by bridge and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan gorge. Pass through the juniper forest of the green cape, then ford the stream of the first lateral cirque of the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, then — the southern scree slopes of the peak Burevestnik Kyzyk-Alaysky. Further along the pack trail, ford the stream of the second lateral cirque, formed by the ridges of the peaks Burevestnik, Kumbel, and the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, and approach the scree slopes leading to the Kurgan pass. From the alpine camp — 3–4 hours.

№ 539 № 33 0524.04.84 BAC p/v ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Range 3. Summit, height, ascent route — Korona Sang-Hoka, 4250 m, via the north-eastern wall. 4. Complexity category — 5A 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 700 m. Average steepness — 65°. Length of complex sections — 360 m.

Description of the Ascent to the Summit

Alam-Darvesh from the North

via route 2A cat. difficulty I. Dushanbe – Gushaры village (by car – 42 km). II. Approaches. Past the chaikhana and the store – onto the slope behind the Gushaры village. The trail is visible from the road: it goes up the slope behind the village to the left and then up to the right. In about 30–40 minutes, the trail leads to a stream, after which a steep ascent to a small pass begins. The ascent takes 10–15 minutes. Then a well-defined trail traverses the slope, approaching a powerful stream in about half an hour. The Alam-Darvesh peak stands in the upper reaches of a large right tributary of this stream. At one point, the trail opens up a view to the left of the peak and the pass, named by V.I. Kryukov in honor of the compiler of this description (“Oh, what a nasty pass!”) — Sanprosvetrabotnikov pass. You should not go all the way to the mouth of the tributary. 40–50 minutes after passing the previously mentioned small pass, near large nut trees, a small trail branches off perpendicularly to the right from the main trail, leading to the cultivated terraces on the right (orographic) bank of the valley of interest. You can also go along the bottom of the valley, but during periods of high water, you may have to climb high onto the slope to bypass the rock walls that approach the water.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Bivachnaya (north) — 3800 m, via the cleft on the Western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 60–70 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

I. Category of Rock Climbing Ascensions 2. Gissar Ridge, Zamin Karor South-Western 3. Zamin Karor South-Western peak via the Western wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference 860 m, route length 890 m Length of sections:

• Category 5 difficulty: 520 m, average steepness 79.23°
• Category 6 difficulty: 180 m, average steepness 86.7°

6. Pitons hammered in:

23.558

Description of the Traverse

Mt. Igizak (Category I difficulty) From the overnight stay on the green meadow located below Bivouachnaya Mt. Byravnaya, one needs to move upwards along the Igizak River, initially through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. After 1.5–2 hours, one can reach the Naizakhba Pass, situated between the peaks of Igizak and Maly Igizak. The ascent to the summit of Mt. Igizak follows the western ridge, which consists of easy rocks. The movement is simultaneous. The ascent from Naizakhba Pass to Mt. Igizak takes 40–50 minutes. The summit elevation is approximately 3700 m. The eastern ridge features alternating sections of small snowfields, easy rocks, and small scree. The descent follows the right side of the ridge (three gendarmes remain on the left) down to Maly Igizak Pass, with simultaneous movement throughout. From Maly Igizak Pass, the descent to the overnight stay via snowfields presents no difficulties. For a small group, the descent from Mt. Igizak to Maly Igizak Pass takes 25–30 minutes, and from Maly Igizak Pass to the overnight stay, it takes 40–50 minutes. Compiled by: Mashkov V. S.