154. Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146. From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:

• move up the gorge;
• reach the Jankuat Glacier;
• ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
• from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to

Description

The description is compiled based on materials from the training section of the "Ullutau" alpine camp. From the "Ullutau" alpine base, ascend via the moraine to the "Cheget" campsites, and from there, head towards the "Gumachi" glacier, traversing the ascents of the 1st and 2nd stages (the latter being steeper in its upper part). From mid-July, crevasses are possible (in rope teams). Alternative route: After passing the "Chotchat" stream, the trail branches off to the right and ascends a steep slope overgrown with rhododendrons to the shoulder of the Eastern ridge of the "Chotchat" peak. Turn right from the shoulder and follow the trail, traversing the orographically left (southern) slope, to reach the left-bank moraine until its end, where there are suitable sites. The journey from the alpine base takes 2–2.5 hours. From the sites:

• ascend to the "Gumachi" glacier, overcoming the aforementioned ascents;
• continue to the "Gumachi" pass;
• to the left of the pass, a broad snow-ice slope of the Northern ridge is visible, with a gradual increase in steepness;
• move along the ridge towards a rocky gendarme;
• from the gendarme, descend along the ridge and then ascend a steep, narrow slope (with possible cornices) that leads to the pre-summit ridge and further to the summit of "Gumachi". Movement is in rope teams with alternate belays or via fixed ropes. The return route follows the ascent path. The time required for the ascent from the moraine sites is 6–7 hours.

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).

pic. and compiled by M.S. M. Romаno. v. Jan-19T'A­li (3991 m) To the ridge, 2A cat. complexity. route 3. Aristova, 35. Exit from the camp along the motor road through Koshi to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa — 3 hours. Overnight stay. Exit from the overnight stay at 2–3 am. Ascent to the Jan-Kuat glacier along the left orographic snow moraine. To the Jan-Tugаn pass — exit under the Aristova rocks in the left part of the glacier. To the plateau from the Zelyonaya gostinitsa: 3–4 hours. Ascent from the plateau:

• Along the talus couloir to the shoulder

V. Dzhantugan

via the 103 ridge, cat. III complexity. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (September 2, 1987) 5:00 — departure from "Zelyonaya gostinitsa" (Green Hotel). 8:00 — Dzhantuganskoye plateau. 9:00–12:00 — summit. The pass between

Route Description

Climbing to the summit of Dzhangtugan via the Northeast Ridge, category 3B From the Dzhangtugan alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross to its right bank via a natural stone bridge. Follow the trail along the right bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing, near the Dzhankuat Glacier. The journey from the Dzhangtugan alpine camp takes 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," ascend along the ridge of the right lateral moraine of the Dzhankuat Glacier to the platforms at its end (Snowy bivouac). From the Snowy bivouac, traverse a snowy slope, bypassing a rocky massif on the left, and reach a saddle on the northeast ridge, a 2-hour journey. From the saddle, ascend a snowy slope for 4 ropes to the bergschrund, then 20 meters to the start of the rocks. From there, follow a rocky ledge left for 1 rope to an internal corner 2.5 meters high, from which ascend left and upwards towards a gendarme (4 "glove" pitches), bypassing it on the left and upwards through moderately difficult rocks (1 rope). Reach the top of the gendarme (control cairn). Continue through broken rocks to a distinct reddish gendarme (4 ropes, control cairn). From it, descend into a gully (4 meters) and then ascend through rocks to the ridge. Traverse 20 meters along a snowy-icy slope and ascend 3 ropes through icy rocks with small holds. Continue for 4.5 ropes under the pre-summit tower along a snowy-icy slope. Approach the tower from the left through rocks (control cairn) - challenging climbing - and reach indistinct black rocks. From there, ascend 5 ropes along a rocky ridge to the summit - 5-6 hours. Descend via the category 2A route along the left part of the couloir (pitons for protection, 4 ropes). Then descend down a snowy slope and exit onto the glacier. From there, return to the Snowy bivouac. The descent takes 3 hours. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 240 m
2. Auxiliary rope 5 m
3. Rock pitons 4-6 pcs.

Description

First Ascent of Djan-Tugan

Via the North-West Ridge

This ascent involved 8 people (the "Lokomotiv" team) divided into two groups of four, with a 1-hour interval between them. First group:

• Garf (team leader)
• Karavaev
• Povarnin
• Sharunin

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus, GAKh 3. Mt. Dzhantugan, 3991 m, via the center of the West Face, combined route 4. Proposed category complexity: 5B 5. Height difference 740 m, route length 985 m Length of sections at category complexity: 135 m. Average slope of the route 50°, rock section 60° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 66, ice 0, placements 19 7. Climbing hours 13 8. No bivouacs, no suitable platforms on the route

Ha­ka 3-0

307. Dolra East via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2B diff., fig. 32, 42). From the Southern “Becho” Shelter, go up the Dolra River. Cross the river and ascend steep grassy, and higher up scree (loose rocks) slopes to a small plateau at the foot of the ascent to the East Ridge of Dolra peak. Set up the initial bivouac at the plateau. From the Southern “Becho” Shelter 3–4 hours. The exit to the East Ridge is also possible from the Dolra Glacier (point 295). From the plateau, go up a snow-covered couloir on the left side to reach the East Ridge. Further, ascend 600–700 m up along the wide, heavily jagged and ruined easy rocky East Ridge with numerous gendarmes that are either overcome head-on or bypassed, to a small plateau below the Big Gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a 20-meter wall (cam). Further, along the heavily ruined, and in places snow-covered (cornices) East Ridge, ascend to the summit of Dolra East. From the initial bivouac: 5–7 hours. Fig. 42.

305. Dolra Vostochnaya via North Ridge (combined route, R. Khazardzhe, 4A cat. diff., fig. 32, 42). From the initial bivouac on the Dolra glacier moraine (approx. 3000 m), cross the glacier (closed crevasses) and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Dolra Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, traverse the bergschrund and ascend the snowy slope to the rocks on the left side of the broad base of the North Ridge. From here, ascend 50–60 m up (loose rocks) moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest, then 140–160 m up-right on steep rocks and slabs of above-moderate difficulty. Then traverse left into a couloir, then 250–300 m up moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest on the left side of the North Ridge, with short above-moderate difficulty walls and corners, until reaching a 15–20-meter wall on the North Ridge. Overcome the wall directly via above-moderate difficulty rocks. Then ascend 400–450 m up steep rocks of the North Ridge with short difficult walls. Traverse the 100–120-meter snowy (cornices) North Ridge to reach the East Ridge. Here, turn right and ascend the straightforward East Ridge to the summit of Dolra Vostochnaya. From the glacier, 10–12 hours. Fig. 42.