Ai-Petri — 11

Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg. Photos: Sergey Dashkevich, Yevgeny Novose­ltsev The weather was quite harsh, but that's what makes it more interesting. The route goes up the right part of the wall almost vertically. The start of the route is 15 meters to the right of a clearly visible sport climbing multi-pitch line. The rock here is very similar to the rocks at Koshka in Simeiz. It features the same honeycombed cavities, which provide excellent friction and allow for free climbing in many places. The first five pitches of the route are the key ones:

• Very steep
• With rare relief
• It's impossible to move by free climbing, organizing self-belay,

Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

The route was climbed in May 2013 by the team of Balabanov Nikita — Fomin Misha (Kiev). From the authors: initially, we planned to climb this route as a first ascent, however, starting from the grottoes, we found one or two old pitons on each rope pitch in the most difficult sections all the way to the yayla. That is, our ascent is at least the second one, and we did not find any information about the first. Therefore, we suggest naming the route "Through the Grottoes" — it reflects the distinctive feature of the entire route, and we hope that the unknown first ascenders would not be offended. The total time taken for the ascent was 16 hours. Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

Alupkinskaya Wall — 3B.

«Ulfhednar», via the grotto of the eastern sector of the Alupkinskaya Wall, 5B

The route's length (excluding approaches, 150–180 m, 1A–1Б category) is 320 m, of which:

• 4th category — 25–30 m.
• 5th category — 130–150 m.
• 6th category — 100–120 m. In sections of 6th category:
• ITO complexity A2 — 18–20 m.
• A2,5–A3 — 7–8 m.

Alupka Wall — 7. "Berserk"

Alpinism, Crimea Fans Written by Elena Dmitrenko, November 19, 2009 19:47 Berserk, 6A. Alupka Wall, Crimea. Michel Voloshanovskiy reports — along with Ilya Vinogradov, Andrey Zhigarev, and Sasha Rushkovskiy, they managed to complete a new route on the Alupka Wall. According to him, it turned out to be a "mega-hurricane." More precisely — "Berserk." These were the exact moods and fighting spirit that accompanied the entire action and its producers.

Michel's Account:

Initially, after a three-day alpine-style push, we fell short of reaching the summit by 35 meters: unexpectedly hot weather drained our water supply. The effect of thirst was similar to that experienced by the legendary berserkers who consumed crushed fly agaric before battle, if historians are not mistaken. When it became clear that we wouldn't make it, I started calling friends — acquaintances from mundane life — offering 500 hryvnias ($65) for 10 liters of water to complete the endeavor.

The route "Storm Warning" 6A cat. sl. on the Alupka Wall 1239 m. Approach to the route: from the parking lot along the wall in the direction of the central couloir. Rockfall hazard! The approach through the couloir is characterized by sections of climbing up to category V and rockfall hazard.

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — Crimea Region. Alupka Wall — 1239 m.
3. Category of difficulty — 6A cat. sl.
4. Route characteristics: Height difference of the route — 239 m. Length of the route — 270 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 85°. Total length of sections with category V difficulty — 80 m. Total length of sections with category VI difficulty — 160 m.

Alupkinskaya Wall — 1. "Compromise"

Alpinism Written by Kopteva, March 23, 2011 1:25 Photo by Sergey Bolkin. It impresses. Not with the presence of many rated routes, not with technically "beyond" relief, not with a loud, famous name, not at all. The wall is attractive because climbing it is guaranteed to be a separate, vivid adventure.

• Grand scale.
• Remoteness.
• Perhaps one of the most serious elevation changes on the Southern Coast of Crimea (YSC).
• And most importantly — you will be the first, because there are very few routes here. Long approach and even more interesting descent (well, for Crimea, of course), absence of civilization, water, possibility to "get out" at the slightest inconvenience to a bar on the coast.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A

The start of the route is marked with the number "2" at the base of the wall in blue paint. The route consists of four short ropes, passes through the left part of the wall, and ends with a large chimney. An old climbing route 2A, fully equipped with fixed protection. It can be considered as a multipitch. Descent rings are present at the stations. Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a (blue line on the photo, the first on the left)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (F6b–6c).

The route passes through the inner corner to the right of "Dвойка" (Two) and gradually transitions under the overhanging cornice. This section of the wall is the first to be shaded after noon. It is worth noting the logical placement of bolts:

• on difficult sections, bolts are more frequent
• on easier sections, they are less frequent Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (line on the photo - second from the left)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (total 4 pitches).

The route has many drilled belay anchors at all key sections. It can be recommended as a first 3A route for less confident climbers. Standard equipment. Routes of Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (green line)

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 40 m, IV. The start of the route is located 20 m to the right of "Acrophobia". The first belay anchor is visible from the ground.

• Up through a small overhang - a difficult section.
• Easier afterwards. Belay station on anchors. R1–R2: 30 m, III.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. Route "Troyka" 3A

Angarskaya Wall. Classic via chimney 3A (V. Goncharov — V. Gumenyuk (Yalta)).

Equipment:

• Large-sized chocks
• Large friends/camalots
• Large-sized hexes
• 10 quickdraws Time to complete the route for an average team: 3 hours. On the far right in the photo: Route "Classic via chimney" 3A