The route "Storm Warning" 6A cat. sl. on the Alupka Wall 1239 m.

Approach to the route: from the parking lot along the wall in the direction of the central couloir. Rockfall hazard! The approach through the couloir is characterized by sections of climbing up to category V and rockfall hazard.

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — Crimea Region. Alupka Wall — 1239 m.
3. Category of difficulty — 6A cat. sl.
4. Route characteristics:

Height difference of the route — 239 m. Length of the route — 270 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 85°. Total length of sections with category V difficulty — 80 m. Total length of sections with category VI difficulty — 160 m.

5. Pitons used:

Rock pitons — 12 pcs. Anchors — 23 pcs. Bolt pitons — 3 pcs. Chocks — 63 pcs.

6. Left on the route:

Rock pitons — 2 pcs. Bolt pitons — 3 pcs. Chocks — 1 pc.

7. Team's moving time — 27 hours.

Team's moving days — 2.5 days.

8. Overnight stays on the route — none
9. Descent path — via the plateau, past the military unit, down through the Shaan-Kaya ridge.

Team of the Chernihiv Regional FAiS:

1. Todorenko Vitaliy Viktorovich — 1st sports category in mountaineering. Coach — Sitnik Mikhail Alexandrovich — Master of Sports of International Class in mountaineering. 2. Polezhayko Vyacheslav Alexandrovich — 1st sports category in mountaineering in "Malye Gory". Coach — Sitnik Mikhail Alexandrovich — Master of Sports of International Class in mountaineering. 3. Fomin Mikhail Alexandrovich — Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering. Coach — Chaplynskii Igor Orestovich — Master of Sports in mountaineering.

Route description by sections

General view of the "Storm Warning" route

R0–R1 — 50 m., 80°, V

The start of the route is marked by a pipe hammered into the wall, found on the approach. Left and up towards a solitary pine. Then straight up to the base of a small chimney with a plug. Station on a comfortable ledge at the base of the chimney. There is one piton.

R1–R2 — 30 m, 80–90, VI+, A3.

From the station:

• straight up with complex climbing under the overhang
• overcome the overhang using aid climbing (A2)
• then climb to the top of the "finger"
• from the top of the "finger" always straight up, climbing with mixed difficult sections using aid climbing
• before exiting to the station ledge — a bolt

Station on a ledge (bolt + own pitons, cams)

R2­–R3 — 30 m., 80­–95°, VI+, A3. From the station, 2 meters to the right along an oblique ledge. Then straight up through a narrow crack using aid climbing (anchors, chocks, pitons) towards an internal corner. In the upper part of the internal corner, a sharp move left through an overhanging "nose". Climbing, 5 meters into a depression under a yellow-gray overhang. At the bottom of the depression, a "carrot" is hammered.

R3­–R4 — 30 m., 80­–90°, VI, A2.

Station R3

Traverse along an oblique ledge to the right. Climbing in some places. Cross over a gap and exit onto a large ledge with a bolt via simple rocks.

The ledge is suitable for an overnight stay!

This is the 3rd station on the route "Friday the 13th" by Michel Voloshanovskiy.

Traverse R3–R4 R4–R5 — 30 m, 90°, VI, A3. Climb 5–6 meters up an internal corner. Then, using aid climbing (anchors, chocks, pitons) on the wall towards a dry bush.

To the right of the bush:

• an hourglass with a white sling.

From the bush, left and up via simple climbing onto an inclined ledge within the internal corner. In the crack of the internal corner, a wooden wedge is hammered! Station on own protection points.

R5–R6 — 30 m., 70°, IV. From the station, left and up, cross over a small ledge. A short traverse along a ledge to the left. Then right and up via simple rocks to the station. Station on three blocked pitons.

R6–R7 — 40 m., 90°, VI, A3. Left and up, three meters onto "feathers" leaning against the wall. From the top of the "feathers" straight up using aid climbing (skyhooks, anchors, chocks, pitons) towards a solitary pine. There is a hole for a skyhook. Station near the pine on a ledge. There is a piton.

R7–R8 — 30 m., 80°, V, A2. Along the ledge to the right 3 m to a wide vertical crack. Climb up the crack. For protection, the following are useful:

• hexes
• large-sized cams

After the crack ends, traverse to the right along the ledge on foot to exit onto the yayla near a large pine.

Source: alpinist.biz