Report

On the ascent of Mestia-Tau peak via the Southern counterfort, category 4B (approximately)

Mestia-Tau peak is located in the upper part of the Lekzyr massif, in a spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge extending from the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi. From Mestia-Tau peak, a snow-ice ridge descends westward to the Mestia Pass plateau, classified as a category 1B route. To the north, a ridge leads to the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi and is part of the traverse of these peaks via a category 2A route. The eastern slopes of Mestia-Tau peak feature very steep and deteriorated rocks, interspersed with small ledges. To the south, the peak initially gives way to a narrow and gentle snow ridge leading to the "Uzlovoĭ" gendarme, which then drops off southward with a rocky triangular wall. The middle part of this wall forms a pronounced rocky ridge. The route along the Southern ridge is logical and safe. This route can be recommended for the ascent of sports groups at the 5th training stage located in the vicinity of the Lekzyr glacier. Map of the Lekzyr glacier area. Group's route. Tourist trails. The base camp of the Dzhaĭlyk alpine camp разрядников was situated on the right (orographic) upper lateral moraine of the Lekzyr glacier, beneath the slopes of the eastern peak of Ullu-Tau.

Route Description

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

203. Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184. Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:

• along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
• across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass. To the pass:
• from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
• then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass. On the pass, turn right and:

203. Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m

180. Svetgar East - West (combined route, G. Melia, category 4B difficulty, fig. 24, 27). From the summit Svetgar Main (route 179) rappelling 8-10 m. Along the simple destroyed snow-covered (cornices) rocky 250-300-meter Western ridge descend to the col under the East ridge of the summit Svetgar Central. On the col bivouac. From Main 1 hour. From the col along the simple snow-covered (cornices) East ridge ascend to the summit Svetgar Central. From Main 1.5-2 hours. From Central down 300-350 m along the ice-snow (cornices), then 60-80 m along the destroyed rocks of medium difficulty and 120-150 m along the wide ice-snow (cornices) Western ridge to a long col (cornices). From Central 2-3 hours. For the ascent to the West summit see route 177. From West 400-500 m down along the steep destroyed snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge. Overcoming "live" stones directly on the rocks of medium difficulty, three gendarmes, descend to the ice-snow col (cornice). On the col bivouac. From the previous bivouac 8-12 hours. From the col:

• 40-50 m up along the difficult wall to the shelf of the East tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka";
• from the shelf bypass the tower of the gendarme along the difficult wall on the left "live" stones and exit to the isthmus under the ascent of the West tower. Along the simple sharp snow-covered 40-50-meter Western ridge ascend to the tower. From the bivouac site - 4-5 hours. From the West tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka":
• 150-200 m down along the Western ridge to the isthmus under the gendarme;
• bypass the gendarme on the right along the shelf, behind it rappelling 30 m along the II ascent;

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge, Western spur from Mt. Stal, section 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Peak, route: Peak 3800 m (Peak "Severstal") via the Western ridge.
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
   • including 393 m of actual wall section.
   • total route length — 1685 m
   • wall section length — 865 m
   • including:

From the "Jailyk" alp camp along the right bank of the Adyr-su River to the cemetery. From the ruined corral, ascend via a trail to a large meadow with campsites and, veering right, continue on the trail to a long, steep ascent up a grassy slope. The trail then levels out, and we traverse the slope along it to two characteristic hills on the slope. At the saddle between the slope and the second hill, the trail turns right and upwards (route category 1 difficulty on Termen-bashi); a cairn is located here. From the cairn, continue traversing the slope without a trail, descending 15 m to a large talus slope resembling a scree. After the talus slope, the trail resumes, and along it, we ascend along the Sullukol River to a moraine and then to a lake. There are campsites available. The journey from the camp takes approximately 4 hours. From the lake, veer left to ascend a moraine ridge, and on the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) of the lateral gorge, exit onto the glacier. From the glacier, ascend via small talus slopes and steep, muddy moraine slopes to the base of Pik Stal. The journey from the lake takes about 2 hours. From the snow in the lowest part of the wall, ascend 20 m via moderately difficult rock climbing - a series of ledges - to an internal corner (category I difficulty). Then, ascend 40 m via the internal corner, which transitions into a chimney. The rocks are more challenging. The first 5 m are the most difficult (category 2 difficulty on a small ledge for one person). Continue as follows:

• Exit left into a crevice, ascending 40 m to a series of large and small ledges. Be cautious of loose rocks upon exiting onto the ledges!!!
• From there, ascend under an overhanging rock and then veer right (difficult climbing) behind a characteristic flake.
• From the flake, make a challenging 3-4 m ascent onto a large ledge.