Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of the area

The ULlu-TAU-CHANA massif is located in the main Caucasian ridge in the upper reaches of the ADYR-SU gorge. This area is frequently visited by climbers and is very well studied. From a sporting perspective, the ULlu-TAU massif is of great interest. Only from the north, 4 routes of 5B category difficulty have been laid. The routes on the northern walls are combined and quite extensive (≈ 1000 m). All routes laid from the north are characterized by steep ice sections of sufficient length. The route taken in the winter of 1965 lies between two well-known routes - the walls leading to the Central and Eastern peaks.

Description of the ascent

March 16. The duo CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI went to a bivouac located under the wall, with the aim of re-connaissance, so that in case of good weather and route conditions, they could start processing the route on the morning of March 17. (The remaining participants in the camp were finishing their training program). March 17. At 7:00, the rope team CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI started processing the route. MARGIANI, RUZHEVSKY, SOKOLOVSKY, POROKHNYA left the camp for the bivouac at 12:00. The approach to the bivouac (in winter) takes about 4 hours. (Deep snow, skis). Soon after the main group arrived at the bivouac, the duo returned from processing. They managed to process 90 m of ice and 30 m of steep rock ("island") during the day. See photo-diagram. So, 10 hours and 120 meters. The ice is steep (50°), very dense, movement is only possible with 12-tooth crampons. The island rocks are completely steep, requiring the use of advanced rock climbing techniques. March 18. The MARGIANI-RUZHEVSKY rope team started processing the route at 7:00 and worked until 16:00, processing the remaining, more complex part of the "island" and the lower slabby rocks. A total of 70 m. All work, except on the slabs, was done on a platform using piton hooks.

Passport

1. Type of ascent — ice and snow climb.
2. Region of ascent — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ullutau East, 4058 m, via rocky outcrops of the North face, West ridge (route by Yu. Chernoslvin, 1965)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference of the route — 650 m
   • route length — 850 m
   • length of sections category 5 — 85 m (central part of the Big rocky outcrop)
   • length of sections category 3–4 — remaining part of the rocky outcrop

Dedicated to the blessed memory of Misha Khergiani and E. Sokolovsky by the team on their ascent

Report

On the ascent to the Eastern peak of Ullu-tau-chana via the rocky islands of the northern wall to the Western ridge, made by the KFK team No. 76 during the CS Fis alpine climbing championship from June 29 to July 1, 1980 (second ascent). Team members:

• Shumikhin G.I. — CMS, team captain
• Dubrovskikh V.V. — 1st sports rank
• Yagupov S.N. — 1st sports rank
• Yakovlev G.S. — MS, coach 1st place CS Fis 1980, group I, rock climbing category

Ascent Details

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — winter
2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m
6. Number of driven pitons: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |