of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "п­Л­ЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.

General Information.

The "Pastukhova" peak is located in the Alamudun ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, in the Shch. Irotsenko glacier basin. To the northwest lies the "Kyrgyzstan" peak (4860 m), and to the east - the "Svobody" peak. To the northeast, a step-like rock-ice counterfort departs. The summit is a snow-ice dome. To the southwest, a complex rocky counterfort departs. The lower slopes are gentle in the upper part and steep rocky slopes in the lower part. The peak was first ascended by two groups in 1958.

• A group led by Master of Sports Romanov A.V. made the ascent via the eastern ridge.
• A group led by Eropunov A. made a traverse of the peak, ascending via the northeast counterfort and descending via the eastern ridge.

Route Description.

Day 1: From the base camp, located near Lake Irotsenko, ascend up the moraine and then along the Yukh. Irotsenko glacier. The glacier is calm at the intersection point, but then has crevasses. After about 1 hour of walking on the glacier, we approach a snow-ice slope leading to the eastern ridge of the peak.

ma­pur­pym gbur­nee­nent

Exella nog'ela na le­puun­t­y mu­re

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face (claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class). And on the traverse of peak "Kyrgyzstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed to be the first ascent by the Central Council of the Spartak DSO). Alma-Ata, 1963

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak DSO:

• July 5–8, 1963, ascended peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face, claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class.
• July 1–3, traversed the peak with ascent via the North face.

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

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N1 and N2 are route points passed by the group