Issyk-Ata — Materials — SummitX

Route Description: В гребню

SSummitMate

9 months ago

mixed climbing belaying traversing bivouacs rock climbing ridge

В гребню

Description of a moderately difficult mountain route with a detailed analysis of technical sections and belay elements over the course of three days.

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "пЛЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.